RK San
This little sushi joint on the southern fringe of Surry Hills has the makings of a winner. Chef RK Tamang has traded his time among the Sydney sushi glitterati – Soyko, Flying Fish and Saké at the Rocks, where he was executive chef – for his own little shop with a pared-back, low-key feel that’s more suburban haunt than hatted resto.
On a weeknight, Tamang is the sole chef in the open kitchen, calmly moving between the sushi bar and deep fryer, turning out elaborate maki rolls filled with fresh prawn tempura and tuna tartare. The menu is a favourites list, from nigiri, sashimi and hand rolls, to skewers over the robata grill, and a few ‘RK San Classics’.
One classic – the maguro hana – is a throwback to his Soyko days, with sashimi tuna atop deep-fried sushi rice cubes with a whack of spicy mayo, and rides heavy with that LA-style crunchy sushi vibe.
The best approach here is to order up and settle in with a bottle of sake for the wait. There’s five on offer, including a crowd pleasing Kikumasamune Kimoto Junmai ($19 for 370ml) and a sweeter, sparkling Takara number. Nearly all the wines on the list come in under $50, including a Tasmanian Cape Bernier chardonnay and a Z Wines Eden Valley riesling – hello, cheap date night.
Forget crisp-based gyoza. Here, a steamy basket of Tibetan momos will land on your table: round, plump and home style, with coarse-ground pork mince and chunky red onion at the centre, and achar, a tangy Tibetan dipping sauce, to the side. Tamang says th