Sanjana Mistry

No travel? No problem. Sydney’s latest foodie destination by Rosa Cienfuegos – who has won fans citywide with her cult Mexican dishes at La Tamaleria in Dulwich Hill –  is a bright, vibrant all-day eatery in Redfern called Itacate.  Itacate is an Aztec word, meaning 'takeaway food'. The deli-eatery is all about translating the homeliness and warmth of casual, family diners across Mexico and bringing them into the heart of Redfern. There are busy lines, staff yelling out names for takeaway orders and families squeezing in to eat shared meals. You’ll overhear conversations on nearby tables, see what they’re eating and want to order it, too. Across the far wall sprawls a large mural, paying  tribute to Cinefuegos’ background, who was born in Mexico City but grew up in Guerrero (the town’s name means ‘warrior’). It features a depiction of Quetzalcoatl, a mythical deity, as well as jaguars, cactus, and corn as an offering.  Cienfuegos has certainly been busy in 2021. Not only has she just opened Itacate, but she also published Comida Mexicana, her first cookbook. “After the success of the cookbook, I had a lot of people calling me, asking for recipes, tips and tricks about specific dishes from the book,” she says. For Cienfuegos, the whole cookbook experience was more than just another project. “Bringing together different authentic recipes from Mexico and people enjoying it and people trying to cook it – that was the main motivation.” At Itacate, Rosa and her team will guide you