Kota - when Francis meets rempah
An unlikely site for a contemporary Asian restaurant, centuries-old Fort Cornwallis has, nevertheless, seen an increase in visitors since KOTA found a home among its crumbling ruins. Historical stature aside, the star fort is only worth poking around for 15 minutes tops; KOTA, on the other hand, warrants repeat visits to sample as much as possible on the captivating menu.
Best described as ‘new Nyonya’, KOTA’s fare sees Peranakan cuisine presented in sleek new packaging. For a palatable prelude to your meal, order the Jumbo platter (RM38): a smorgasbord of small bites including yam puffs, pai tee (also called Top Hats), jiu hu char (stir-fried jicama), kerabu (pickled mango salad), turmeric chicken and tandoori (yogurt-marinated chicken). None stray far from their traditional representations, save for the pai tee, which comes topped with ebiko for an enticing extra crunch.
‘It’s like sushi, almost!’ exclaims my lunch date when we tackle the Satay next. He uses the word, ‘almost’, because the chicken isn’t skewered, but artfully arranged atop ketupat (rice compressed into cubes). Chicken roulade was, in fact, the inspiration behind the dish, but whether Japanised of Frenchified, the dish carries global appeal.
One of the house specials, a dish simply called Nyonya, is as multifaceted as its name is straightforward. A triple ode to Peranakan cooking, the tiered rice dish sees bright blue coconut rice sandwiched between rendang and a bed of otak-otak. Crispy, wispy strands of de