Morena
Latin American dining in Melbourne still feels insubstantial, which only underscores the ambition and significance of Alejandro Saravia’s latest project. The chef and restaurateur, who helped introduce modern Peruvian cooking to Australian audiences more than a decade ago, first debuted Morena in Sydney in 2011. Now, the pan-Latin fine diner has arrived in Melbourne, taking up residence in a sleek new build at 80 Collins – the same precinct as its sibling venue, Farmer’s Daughters.
The split-level space is carefully orchestrated. Downstairs, a gleaming, charcoal-toned chef’s table wraps around the open kitchen – a setting built for narrative, in line with Saravia’s storytelling ethos. Upstairs, whitewashed walls, sparse furnishings and a second kitchen set the tone for a quieter, more intimate dining room complete with an outdoor terrace. Local artworks, ceramics and foliage soften the clean lines and lend a sense of place.
The drinks list gestures across Latin America, particularly through its wine selection, but the cocktails are worth a detour. Pisco, the grape-based brandy central to Peruvian drinking culture, appears in several expressions. A standout is the guanabana sour, which layers the spirit with chartreuse, apricot brandy and soursop, a custardy tropical fruit that adds tang and weight. More delicate is the ponche de leche, a clarified milk punch laced with coffee, pineapple and plantain. It’s silky, rich and perhaps too short to start a meal with, but a lovely wa