Mercato By Jean-Georges
In Shanghai, Mercato is an institution in the city’s casual dining scene. Located in the beautiful neo-renaissance style Union Building on The Bund, the restaurant was the building management’s response to the various failed concepts – bar Jean-Georges on the fourth floor – that hadn’t succeeded in making the address a dining destination. Modelled after chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s casual concept ABC Kitchen (unrelated to the one in Sheung Wan Cooked Food Centre) in New York, the prestigious address, family-friendly atmosphere and easy-on-the-wallet prices made Mercato an immediate hit.
That was 2012. Now, in 2016, chef Vongerichten returns to Hong Kong, long after his stint at the Mandarin Oriental in the 90s. Housed on the eighth floor of the city’s most centralised and restaurant-packed destination, California Tower, Mercato is a direct import of the congenial original concept. So much so that the interiors are designed by Neri & Hu’s, the same company that designed the premises in Shanghai. Floor-to-ceiling windows face a forest of greenery and with natural light spilling in, you can’t help but feel relaxed.
Quoted as ‘sexy Italian’, the style of cuisine is best described as an interpretation of Italian that’s peppered by French techniques and influences. The menu is undoubtedly Italian – crudos, wood oven pizzas and housemade pastas demonstrate that – but items such as beef and tuna tartare crop up here and there. Whichever way you cut it, as long as it’s good, who