Shwarmama
Chef Mat Lindsay wakes up every morning to bake cookies. He doesn’t own a bakery, and the cookies won’t be found on the menu at his restaurant, Ester, in Chippendale, or his Surry Hills wine bar, Poly. They’re for his kebab shop, Shwarmama.
The glossy concrete, marble and steel-clad hole-in-the-wall is tucked away on leafy Commonwealth Street in Surry Hills. Lindsay has joined forces with Russell Beard of nearby Paramount House Hotel, Paramount Coffee Project and Reuben Hills fame for the project, and together they make a winning team. The food is fast and fresh, the site considered, the vibe buzzing, and the branding? Pure fire.
Manning the till at the all-day eatery are young staff decked out in Shwarmama merch (think fire-engine red neckerchiefs and backwards hats).
“What’s good?” we ask.
“Literally everything,” says our server. And it’s not a lie.
Go with a gang, and start with the hummus. A well of the silky dip, whipped like cream with tahini, holds juicy whole chickpeas, harissa and citrusy parsley oil. The shawarma is chicken, heavily spiced, and shaved to order from a gas-powered vertical spit. Choose to have it loaded into that crisp-edged laffa, or over chips in the Not Halal Snack Pack. In both guises the juicy meat plays support-act to garlic sauce, harissa, tahini, hummus, onions and hot-pink crunchy pickles, but it’s in the NHSP that you can taste the spices at their best. The chips, too, skin-on and fried extra crisp, somehow hold their crunch under a hot