Jordan Bassett

You say Haringey, I say Harringay – let’s call the whole thing off and have a kebab. Yes, it’s confusing, but Haringey is the borough and within it you’ll find Harringay Green Lanes, a mile-long strip that teems with bars and cafés, music venues, Victorian boozers and staggeringly well-stocked grocery shops. And that’s before we get to the sensational Turkish restaurants that line the main drag. This is the very best of London in all its noisy, aromatic, chaotic glory. It’s not the starriest of London locales, even if the so-called ‘Harringay Ladder’ (a grid of 19 streets to the west of the Lanes) is becoming ever-more desirable. What Green Lanes excels at, though, is sheer stimulation of the senses. Whether you’re grabbing a gözleme flatbread for a few quid or enjoying the mural of John Lennon and Brazilian football ace Alex de Souza (sure!), you’re sure to spark the imagination. It’s an overwhelming place, so here’s our pick of the crop. RECOMMENDED:The best things to do in north LondonLondon’s best Turkish restaurantsThe best restaurants in Finsbury Park

The first Dusty Knuckle bakery launched in Dalston in 2014 and was such a lip-smacking hit that this Green Lanes café and restaurant followed in 2021. Once you’ve tried their fiery egg, chilli and cheese focaccia, you’ll see why industry body British Baker named them one of the UK’s top artisan bakers. They also run a trainee programme for young people who face barriers to employment. All in all: good eggs.

You’re never more than a couple of minutes’ walk from a truly excellent Turkish barber on Green Lanes. For my money, though, the best is Messy Cut, a deceptively named institution that will keep you looking sharp. Just a short walk from Manor House station, it features cosy wood-panelled environs. A scissor or machine cut with hot towel treatment will set you back just £21, and it stays open until 7.45pm six days a week, so you can always nip in after work. 

This quirky eatery serves up ‘French tacos flavoured by northern Africa’ and makes ingenious use of its modest space with bunk-bed-style booths stacked on top of each other. You might appreciate the work-out required to reach the upper level, given that their signature dish, ‘London’s first Birria taco pizza’, a humongous creation stuffed with a decadent combo of cheese, tender beef and rich consommé, and topped with Algerian sauce, coriander, onion and lime wedges. Take it from us; you’re gonna need napkins.

With Mr. Rabbit, a little plaster bunny, keeping close watch across the beautifully kept gardens, this red-brick library is the very definition of wholesome. There are regular events for children (such as Playful Crafts for Under 5s and the older kids’ Comics Club) and Shared Reading groups for adults. In an area where so many are passing through, this is a real – and essential – community hub.

One of the greatest boozers in London – full stop – this enormous Victorian beauty comes replete with a tasty Thai kitchen, an exhaustive bar selection and characterful taxidermy critters. Given the size of the place, it’s ideal for big groups (you can spill out onto the benches outside in warm weather) while the cosy booths are great for a date or long overdue catch-up. The Salisbury featured in the Bob Hoskins flick The Long Good Friday and Robert Downey Jr.’s Chaplin, so you know it’s cool.

This café, restaurant and bar is go-to spot for brunch – I always order the Mediterranean Breakfast, a bonanza of egg, sausage, halloumi and fruit that arrives on an enormous platter. It’s also a great place to meet up if with friends if you have kids; there’s a play area at the back, comprising of two slides, a climbing frame and tons of toys, which will keep the kids entertained so you can enjoy yourself. Catch children’s entertainer George the Music Man here at 11am on Tuesdays.

If The Finsbury is about new bands and Jam in the Jar has a jazzier flavour, the New River Studios is the punk alternative to Green Lanes’ music scene. A community arts centre run on a not-for-profit basis, it’s a cosy venue that often showcases music that’s anything but. For records and vintage bargains, try your luck at the Eade Road Market here every Sunday.

From cases full of costume jewellery to racks stuffed with neon-coloured trackie tops, leather jackets, jeans, footie shirts much more, you’ll be hard-pressed to come away from this Turnpike Lane vintage and second-hand shop empty handed. It’s a great place to play dress-up with a dizzying array of retro garments.They don’t do refunds, though, so make sure you definitely need those cow print dungarees with the bell bottoms.

It’s hard to imagine a more frenetic London neighbourhood than Green Lanes  – you’ll need nerves of steel to drive down the main drag – but this little spot is a real sanctuary among the hustle and bustle. With a ‘Mini Beast Habitat’ full of creepy crawlies, along with a wildlife trail and swings, there’s plenty to fascinate kids. You’ll also find a café, picnic benches and a calming view of the New River; a little slice of paradise for anyone who just needs to decompress.  

It’s hard to stand out among the amazing Turkish restaurants on Green Lanes, but an immaculate patisserie sets Antepliler apart. Located next to the main business, with a pared-down interior and glass cabinets full of gorgeous creations, it looks more like an art gallery than a destination for sweet treats. Those cabinets, though, are filled with exquisite cakes and baklava that’s lighter than air yet deeply satisfying – another example of the everyday beauty that lines these streets.

Home to artists and creative businesses such as guitar manufacturer Blast Cult UK and Snap Recording Studios (which has been used by the likes of Kate Bush, Liam Gallagher, and The Streets), Omega Works on Hermitage Road is the jewel in the crown of Haringey’s warehouse district, and an impressive vestige of old-school London. It’s worth keeping an eye out for ad-hoc exhibitions and jumble sales, which you’ll sometimes find being flyered on the street, and be sure to get a snap with the burnt-out old Chevy that sits proudly outside Blast Cult.  

There is some weird alchemy at work in this iconic Turkish supermarket, which quadruples up as a bakery, deli and butchers. Ever read ‘Needful Things’, the Stephen King novel about an antiques shop that mysteriously stocks its customers’ hearts’ desires? It’s sort of like an angelic version of that, but with fruit and veg, cleaning products, fancy coffee, household items, delicious booze and… well, whatever you happen to need in the moment. And, as it proudly boasts online, it has been ‘open all night and every night since 1999’. Magic!