La Panchina
You can’t blink without seeing an autentico pizzeria in Surry Hills these days. There are more than a dozen within the 1km squared zone bordered by Elizabeth, Oxford, South Dowling and Cleveland. That makes pretty much one pizza parlour per thousand people in Surry Hills. It’s Sydney’s crust capital.
The latest pizzaiolo to take up residence in the 2010 is longtime Sydney doughslinger Luca Mochi, whose first solo act, La Panchina (‘park bench’ in Italian) is next to Arthur Street Reserve, behind longtime pasta favourite Il Baretto. It’s a tiny space kitted out with a half dozen tables and stools squeezed next to a serious wood-burning pizza oven and an open prep kitchen. It’s small, to be sure, but the park next door is the unofficial outdoor dining area – picnic blankets covering the grass when the weather’s good, mozzies be damned. An outdoor terrace has sadly not yet materialised, but fingers crossed it happens one day, because it would double seating capacity and bring a proper Italian vibe off the main drag.
Even though it’s a tight squeeze, La Panchina is inviting in a laidback way: Italian pop playing in the background, Vespa parked out front, locals sipping espressos while kids play in the park. Small tables can be pushed together for large groups, which is so much better than, say, a birthday dinner in an empty, cavernous restaurant. The simple, single-page menu is artisan rather than paint-by-numbers pizza.
Where La Panchina really shines, though, is the dough. The