Citrico
It was dubbed 'Melbourne’s whitest suburb' by Stuff White People Like author Christian Lander, and nine years later you still need cojones to fly an exotic culinary flag in Fitzroy North. But this 'hood better known for fish and chip shops and an art deco McDonald’s has put out the bunting for a Chilean-Peruvian-Argentinian joint jumping with pisco sours and ceviche. Olé.
Citrico inhabits a stretch of Queens Parade criminally under-represented in the decent restaurant stakes. It was once Chianti, a red sauce joint that tottered along for 29 years before being briefly hipsterised. In the hands of new owners Nan Kroll and partner Julio Forteza the tight snug of red brick-lined rooms, now bejewelled with a candy-striped bar and yellow bar stools, blown-glass light pendants and pots of succulents, is the kind of place that finds it remarkably easy to conjure the feeling of a neighbourhood redoubt. It's a place to forget peak hour traffic woes and the office psychopath with the help of a pisco Maria and easy-cheesy quinoa and manchego croquettes with chilli-spiked mayo.
Citrico was initially going to be a ceviche bar (Citrico means citrus, after all) but Kroll and Forteza, perhaps wisely, decided to give their new baby broader parameters. Triangulating the food of Chile, Argentina and Peru – the south of South America - might sound like a broad agenda to any natives but to an Aussie audience it translates happily enough to ceviche, and empanadas, and griddle-marked meat flavoured