Jack Ellis

✍️ Time Out Sydney never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more, here. As I step from the heat and bustle of Lakemba’s Haldon Street into the colourful interior of Island Dreams Cafe, the first thing to catch my eye is a giant, very old-style Italian espresso machine. It has clearly been lovingly cared for over the decades, but it looks so ancient that it might have hissed and puffed out an authentic Italian espresso for Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday. This vintage glamour is characteristic of the décor and atmosphere of this cool and welcoming café restaurant. The aquatic-green walls are decorated with faded island maps, coconut fronds and photos of perfect island beaches.  The décor is unique and (while I don't like to overuse the word), the food at Island Dreams is extremely unique – it’s the only restaurant in Sydney serving the cuisine of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. This isn’t surprising, given that the islands have a population of just 600 people. They are situated off the northwest coast of Australia and, although the islands have been part of Australia since 1955, they are geographically closer to Sumatra. Despite this proximity, this ‘Aussie’ fare has a distinctly Malay character, but it is mostly served Sumatran-style from the huge bain-marie that dominates the room.  Island Dreams opened in 1996, an

✍️ Time Out Sydney never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more, here. Peranakan Place’s location right on Parramatta Road, between Fishing ‘R’ Us and Rug World, seems an unlikely place for a restaurant this well-regarded. When we arrive, tables are packed with multi-generational families, as well as some smaller groups of friends and couples. Those in the know get that it’s a treat to be here. Peranakan restaurants aren’t common in Australia – in part, because Peranakan food is so labour-intensive to prepare. The authentic preparation of the rempah, a complex blend of spices that serves as the foundation for each of the cuisine’s different dishes, can involve hours of chopping and hand-grinding. But the effort shows in the flavours.  The cuisine of Peranakan culture is most commonly referred to as ‘Nonya’, which is a term of respect for Peranakan women. In English, it means something between ‘ma’am’ and ‘aunt’. Essentially, Nonya recipes combine Chinese cooking techniques with Malay spices. This fusion of cuisines was the result of generations of marriages between Malay women and Chinese merchant sailors. These sailors were often from Fujian, the mainland province west of Taiwan, which is known for its fragrant seafood braises, gently simmered with mushrooms and umami sauces. So, apart from the literal marriages, this blend of