Poly
Opened in 2018, Poly is tucked into the bottom corner of the Paramount Building in SurryHills, a wine bar sibling to Mat Lindsay’s iconic Chippendale restaurant, Ester. While theunderlying vibe is similar (woodfired oven, arches, elegant neutrals with a few pops ofcolour), where Ester is light and airy, Poly is sexy and cool.
Semi-subterranean due to the slope of the block, with a vermiculite ceiling (for the purposes of sound-proofing as well as aesthetics) it feels like you’re in a very fancy parking garage. A combination of small, individual tables and communal-style long tables and an even longer bar can accommodate all configurations of guests, from solo diners through to large groups. But it doesn’t feel like you’re intruding on your neighbours, the staff, while incrediblyaccommodating, aren’t trying to squish you in like sardines. The beautiful, brightly labelledbottles of natural wine that line the walls are a focal point, and we could sit and stare at them all day.If you want a snack, the infamous brick of fried hash potato with salted egg yolk and chivesis hard to go past (there’s always room for potato, after all), and, of course, oysters–naturalor “Paramount”; roasted with spinach and garlic–are the perfect mouthful. Add a deftly mademartini or a splash of something from sommelier (and part owner) Julien Dromgool’s conciselist of wines by the glass. Food wise, almost everything is a little on the heavy side, featuringthe smokey, fermented and umami flavours Linsda