Hugh Thomas

Opposite Farringdon’s famous bird ­– The Eagle, that is – exists a conservative and relatively quiet restaurant. Bow-­tied waiters and bare, whitewashed walls hint at a lack of invention, but for proof to the contrary, try the pork belly. The delicate meat paddled in a flavour­-boosting chicken jus and, while the rainbow chard was more decorative than anything else, a dusting of popcorn fragments over the pork’s rind showed 155 can have a bit of fun. This didn’t translate with the pumpkin ravioli, mind – well-­made as the pasta was, the filling bore a dull, earthy flavour. Food was generally rich or subtle, with little in-­between. The mushroom consummé, as dainty as a Borrower’s stamp collection, hardly needed the waiter’s gravy boat theatrics at the table. Pig’s head croquettes were encumbering for a starter, but well done. Desserts, if over­-sugared, satisfied. Chocolate fondant cloyed the palate, while the sticky toffee pudding was just the right side of toothsome. Just don’t expect any help with the wine list. The waiter, bless him, ran a finger down the page and offered nothing more than, ‘this one’s nice; this one’s good’. With its dependable food and smart look, 155 is prime business lunch territory. Bring a colleague who knows his chablis from his chardonnay and you’ll do fine.

Creativity in food is a great thing but sometimes, it casts a shadow over the food itself. If you're a street-food trader, chances are one of your biggest aspirations is acquiring a battered 1980s milk float, doing it up, and putting your stamp on it. The more resplendent, the better. Results are like candy for the eyes – the sweetest kind. So, as we're right in the middle of winter, we've lined up 20 of the prettiest food vans to tempt you out of the house for dinner. Netflix and Deliveroo be damned. Luardos, KERB Camden & Whitecross Street Food Market   A photo posted by Mexican Street Food in London (@luardos) on Apr 20, 2015 at 12:07pm PDT What they serve: Tacos, quesadillas, and tortas in typical flamboyant Mexican fashion.   B.O.B’s Lobster, Street Feast Dinerama & Hawker House   A photo posted by B.O.B.'s Lobster (@bobs_lobster) on May 13, 2016 at 11:10am PDT What they serve: 'Bourgeois dining on a paper plate' – expect the likes of lobster rolls, tuna tacos, and eggs benedict.   Sub Cult, Leather Lane Market & Brockley Market   A photo posted by SubCult (@subcultlondon) on Jun 28, 2015 at 3:30am PDT What they serve: American-style sub sandwiches. No sloppiness spared. The Roadery, various KERB markets   A photo posted by T H E R O A D E R Y (@roaderyfood) on Nov 2, 2016 at 4:05am PDT What they serve: Foraged, nose-to-tail British numbers occasionally flirting with other cuisines. Blu Top, Maltby Street Market   A photo posted by BLU TOP

Getting a little nippy out there, wouldn't you say? Don't get us wrong, we love a bit of the fresh winter air. But it's not quite the weather for gobbling tacos, ice cream or – mercifully – superfood salads. What you really need is a big, warm hearty dish instead. But don't think you need a central-heated dining room to eat it in – London's street-food traders do some top notch dishes all in the name of comfort. Here are a few of them. The Patate's beef bourguignon burger Beef bourguignon burgers? There ain't much that can sweeten that little sales pitch. Unless, of course, your next words are 'would you like a slice of raclette with that?'. Let's not kid around – it's a question for which there's surely only one response. Find it at Kerb Camden   A photo posted by The Patate (@thepatateuk) on Sep 6, 2016 at 1:51pm PDT   The Mac Factory's Super Mario For something so simple, there seems to be an inordinate amount of people who screw up macaroni cheese. Not so with The Mac Fac. Their mac 'n' cheese with sautéed portobellos, truffle oil and roast garlic hardly goes amiss, and that's before you've even got to the chunky fried breadcrumbs within. Find it: the Mac Factory restaurant in Euston or Kerb Camden    A photo posted by THE MAC FACTORY (@themacfactorylondon) on Aug 7, 2016 at 8:39am PDT MyPie's British game pie MyPie is what happens when a pastry chef leaves a Michelin-starred restaurant, packs his bags and buys a van. While MyPie's general pie game is strong

Back for its second year, Oktober Feast has quickly (and arguably) become London’s biggest celebration of German October beer antics. Too big, some may say. With a billed 50 beers on show, you’ll definitely want to narrow that down to just a few – unless you’re up for swigging them all and ending up in the nearby canal. Well, say no more, because we’ve picked out five brews to get you nice and prepped for Hawker House’s big beer bash. Prost!   A photo posted by Milos Vrhovac (@veciti_decak) on Sep 29, 2016 at 11:46am PDT   Oktoberfest-Märzen from Hacker-Pschorr  What’s a Märzen, you ask? Think about what you know as a lager. Then throw that image out the window – Märzens are traditionally bigger on the hops to last aging from March (believe it or not, they didn’t have fridges in 1553), and with their amber/brown hues they fall right in with those autumnal colours. That’s what we call seasonal fashion. Anyway, Hacker-Pschorr’s Märzen is the real deal, and here’s your chance to try it.   A photo posted by Wild Beer Co (@wildbeerco) on May 26, 2015 at 2:12am PDT   Millionaire from Wild Beer Co.  What do we have here? A chocolate and salted-caramel milk stout? Yes, it’s decadent. Yes, it’s a bit over the top. No, it has nothing to do with Oktoberfest. But this is London, not Munich, so what the hell. If you wanted a beer that screams ‘gloriously overindulgent pudding’ after all that jerk sausage and southern-fried chicken, this is it right here.   A photo posted

With last month's abundance of beer fests out the way, you may be forgiven for thinking you'd get through September relatively dry. Not so. Hugh Thomas spoke to beer blogger Rebecca Pate about her top five tap takeovers of the month. Wimbledon Brewery: We Brought the Brewery There’s more to Wimbledon than strawberries and cream (come to think of it, that does sound like a tasty fruit beer). We Brought Beer invite you to discover another of Wimbledon’s gems, Wimbledon Brewery, who began life with a focus on cask beer. However, the brewery has extended its reach and now also offers their range in keg, can and bottle. For this event, attendees will sample their wares via all four dispensing methods. Debates rage about which method reigns supreme, but everyone wins when the beer’s good. We Brought Beer Clapham Junction, 78 St Johns Hill, Battersea, SW11 1SP. Sep 14, 7pm–10pm. Camden Town Brewery: Oktoberfest launch While this isn’t strictly a tap takeover, Camden Town Brewery is going all out in unveiling its Oktoberfest lager in true German style – they couldn't even wait until October rolls around. The first keg, available at six pubs around London, is gratis to punters. But if you miss out on the opportunity, don’t get your lederhosen in a twist – the brewery is planning a tank party on October 1 where its new lager will be pouring straight from the source. Various locations across London on Sep 16, 7pm–10pm.   IntelligentX Brewing Company: UBREW takeover So it’s finally hap

Ah, August. ’Tis the month craft beer fans have been waiting for, what with the ten-day London Beer City taking place around the city, and The Craft Beer Festival in the middle of the month. In case that's not enough, we’ve invited beer writer Rebecca Pate to let you in on a few other – and some related – beery goings-on around the capital over the next 30 days. Namely, tap takeovers: when a brewery temporarily moves into a pub or bar to put its beer on tap and sell it. Here are Rebecca's top five picks this month. Fourepure Juicebox Giveaway and Tap Takeover Just one of the many tap takeovers on the London Beer City itinerary, this promises ten draft beers dedicated to Fourpure Brewing Co, one of the original breweries on the Bermondsey Beer Mile. The first 50 people at the bar are promised a free can of the new – and extremely quaffable – Juicebox citrus IPA. Draft House Charlotte, 43 Goodge Street, W1T 1TA. Aug 11, 6pm-11pm. Ubrew Members Tap Takeover Also running in conjunction with London Beer City, members of London’s first open brewery will be trialling their own inspired concoctions on professional brewing kits. Some of London’s newest breweries are either currently brewing or began brewing at Ubrew, so there should be some seriously high-quality beer on offer. Ubrew, 29-30 Old Jamaica Road, SE16 4AW. Aug 13, noon-7pm. Tickets required – RSVP here.   Rebecca Pate   One Mile End Meet the Brewer and Tap Takeover From humble beginnings as a microbrewery beneath the Whi

When Borough Market craft beer bar The Rake was told it wouldn't survive to see its first Christmas, even the owners must have had doubts it would last a mighty ten years. Well, it has, and in order to mark the occasion appropriately, they're throwing a free party down the road at Borough Market's Market Hall next week. There will be, as you can imagine, beers aplenty. The full list of brews curated by sommelier Melissa Cole is yet to be announced, but we have it on good authority you can look out for the likes of Cloudwater, Moor, Magic Rock, The Kernel and Gipsy Hill. The Rake's tenth birthday party is on August 10, noon-5pm and 5.30pm-10pm, in the Market Hall on Borough High Street (entrance on Bedale Street) SE1 1TL. Entrance is free, but requires a wristband (two per person only) collected from The Rake or The Cage on or before August 8. Find out more here.  In more drinking news, the 'Breaking Bad' inspired pop-up bar is coming back to London.

  A photo posted by Meantime Brewing (@meantimebrewing) on Feb 18, 2016 at 4:00am PST Considering the city's craft brewing scene is in the midst of a new wave of hoppy, dark, and sour drinks, it’s no surprise some of us are put off going within ten feet of anything labelled ‘beer’ ever again. But, as these brews should show, all is not lost for new drinkers this summer. Believe it or not, London’s breweries do make the odd beer that won't clout you over the head with a sack of hops.    A photo posted by samchilds (@therealsamchilds) on Mar 6, 2016 at 9:41am PST   40ft Pale Ale By creating a not overly hoppy pale ale, these Dalston boys have brought London exactly what it needed. The big tropical fruit notes you get from this brew are a bit like shoving a particularly ripe mango into your face. Like fruit? Consider this one of your five-a-day. Try it at various bottle shops, or their Dalston brewery.   A photo posted by Mart (@ogre_battle156) on Mar 26, 2016 at 11:06am PDT Meantime Wheat Alright, this one might not knock you off your feet, but it is a solid intro to the German-style weissbier, where you’ll typically pick up subtle notes of banana and clove. A good starter beer, because it’s a little sweet, not bitter, not hoppy, and definitely not like licking an ashtray. Try it at various bottle shops, or their Greenwich brewery.   A photo posted by Damith Rajakaruna (@damithc82) on Jun 23, 2016 at 2:56pm PDT Beavertown Smog Rocket While Beavertown’s signatu

Where can you find 2016 'MasterChef' champion Jane Devonshire, a chilli-eating contest, and a ‘Mojito Ship’ all in one place? Try Foodies Festival on Blackheath Common, starting this Friday. Gluttonous activity during this three-day feast will include Michelin-starred chefs exhibiting their culinary skills and sommeliers explaining the ins and outs of beer and wine. That’s not to suggest you can’t have your own say – with the British Street Food Awards in attendance, you’ll be able to vote on who has the best nosh, from the likes of Le Bao, Dosa Deli, and The Cake Doctor. Foodies Festival runs Jul 8–10, at Blackheath Common. Tickets are from £12.

Martin Morales is London's – not to mention one of the world's – great ambassadors for Peruvian cuisine, with a couple of much-lauded Ceviche restaurants in Old Street and Soho. Today is National Ceviche Day in Peru, so since our homemade ceviche is looking distinctly like a cold mess, we chased Master Morales for his top tips on how to put things right. Fresh ingredients are key 'Fish needs to be sashimi grade, limes need to be ripe, chillies need to be super fresh, and all freshly squeezed or chopped.'   Timing is everything 'Chemical reactions happen when fish, chilli, lime and salt come together. Bite into this immediately once properly prepared, and you will taste explosions of flavour all around your palate.'     Peruvian ingredients are best 'Ceviche is Peru’s national dish. We have our own day for it, and it’s where the dish first originated. Our technique makes the best tasting and so do our ingredients. Amarillo and limo chillies are native to Peru and your preferred choice when making the best-flavoured ceviche.'     Make friends with your fishmonger 'Order your fish fresh, pick it up just hours before serving, and insist on sustainable fish.'   Ceviche can be vegetarian 'Replace fish with asparagus or mushrooms or mango or sweet potato. Get creative.' But if the DIY still doesn't work out, head to one of the best Peruvian restaurants in London.

There are two fundamental conundrums to life: 1) what to have for lunch and 2) what the heck to pair it with. Fortunately for you, we've recruited top beer sommelier and lovely person Melissa Cole to wed this summer's best street food to beer so they can live happily and eternally in gastronomic matrimony. Or, y'know, just so they taste good together. Here's her top picks:    SpiceBox's Summer Veg Coconut and Cashew Korma with... Anspach & Hobday's The Brother Sean Belgian stout Get food at: Druid Street Market on Saturdays Closest beer shop: The Bottle Shop, Druid Street 'Druid Street-based brewery Anspach & Hobday has just the answer for this and it's called Brother Sean, an aged imperial Belgian stout. Now,you're going to need some friends as it only comes in 750ml bottles, but it's got lots of malt loaf and a little burnt note that will help balance out the creamy sweetness of the korma. It's quite a special beer for a pretty special dish.'   Capish's Braciole sandwich with... 40ft Brewery's 'Larger' Get food at: Street Feast Dalston Yard Get beer at: 40ft's Dalston brewery, Ashwin Street 'This is one of those dishes where you need to remember the mantra 'K.I.S.S.' (keep it simple stupid) and just reach for a really clean pils-style beer. For that I'd look to 40ft Brewery's 'Larger' – no, that's not a typo, it's basically German brewmaster Ben Ott's excellent sense of humour at work. The key here is that it's simple, soft, rounded refreshment that just works as a great

  Few things go better with a pint or a burger than a portion of well-made onion rings. In fact, some are so good you could dine on them alone. Here's where to find the perfect ringers.  The Ring, Southwark This pub got its name because it serves up the best onion rings in London. (No, I refuse to believe it had anything to do with the now-defunct boxing ring over the road.) Here you’ll find moist, buttery onions in a fluffy outer shell. The kicker? They’re laced with chilli. Meat Liquor, various sites It has come to be known in certain culinary circles that the onion rings at Meat Liquor are quite simply as big as your face. What more really needs to be said? © Dirty Burger Dirty Burger, various sites What do you get when you cross the two best accompaniments to a burger? Answer: onion fries. That’s right, Dirty Burger’s onions are in no way circular, but guess what? It doesn’t matter. These beauties are salty, sodden with oil, and surrounded by a paper-thin batter – in other words, everything you want in an onion ring. You know, without the 'ring' bit. The Mayflower, Rotherhithe As you surely already know, this pub’s named after the ship that transported the first pilgrims to America in 1620, departing from the adjacent dock on the Thames. Unfortunately for them, these pilgrims clearly didn’t taste the pub’s bar snacks – the allure of the al dente onions encased in a batter with the crunchiness not unlike Monster Munch would’ve ensured they never bothered to set sail in t

What do we have more appetite for than our local market traders? Reeling off a list of our favourite ones, of course. Enter Fergus Henderson – the godfather of nose-to-tail dining who, by the sounds of it, has a bit of a soft spot for creamy things.  Hook & Son, Oval Farmers’ Market 'Raw milk, raw cream, raw butter: The most brilliant excuse for a pudding I know, and the stallholder has a very nice nature which must come from dealing with all that raw cream.' Perry Court Farm, Islington and Bloomsbury Farmers’ Market 'Talking of pudding, what better way to use that raw cream and butter than in an apple crumble? Just a stroll away from St. John Smithfield, there are lots of old apple varieties here, and even some strange and ancient strains around October for Apple Day.'   Doughnuts at Bread & Wine today: Vanilla / Chocolate / Spiced Apple #pillowsofjoy #doughnuts #elevenses La Grotta Ices, Spa Terminus 'The arches along the railway line from Maltby Street up to Spa Terminus are all full of wonderful producers – proper makers, many the result of an exodus from Borough Market when the rents and tourists became too much. On Saturdays you will find Kitty Travers of La Grotta Ice Cream, with a stall outside Neal’s Yard Dairy. It glows with ice cream radiance!'   A photo posted by St. John Restaurant (@st.john.restaurant) on May 18, 2015 at 6:14am PDT St. John Bakery, Druid Street 'Forgive a mention of our own bakery, but Laszlo, our head baker, makes the most glorious lo