Figgy Guyver

Hidden within the colourful maze that is the Scottish National Portrait Gallery is an oasis of calm. The gallery’s modest library contains reference books of all sorts, as well as numerous miscellaneous oddities - from a locket containing a miniature portrait of the eye of Charlotte Princess of Wales to the life (and death) masks of the famous and infamous. The phrenological heads in the gallery’s permanent collection make the trek to New Town worthwhile. Back in the 19th century, Edinburgh was the centre for phrenology - the pseudoscientific practice of measuring different parts of a person’s skull in order to discern notable character traits, ethical leanings and even degrees of intelligence. The centre for the practice was found, until it was disbanded in 1870, just down the street from what is now the Portrait Gallery.       Remnants, or remains, of the peculiar practice are displayed in the glass cabinets that line the walls of the library. The heads of the infamous murderers Burke and Hare are shown alongside the authors Keats and Voltaire. Framed, as the display is, in the context of phrenology, you might find yourself temporarily buying into the ‘scientific’ theories - studying the heads as if to detect from physical appearance why two of the men were murderers, two were literary geniuses. The disturbingly perfunctory tags of ‘insane’ man, ‘female idiot’ and a woman of ‘extreme cunning’ bring you back to the 21st century however; this practice demonstrated a very Vic

Edinburgh is an ideal destination for a city break. It boasts heaps of history, punches above its weight in terms of culture, and is ideally sized to explore on foot. However, as the second-most expensive city in the UK, visiting on a budget can be a bit of a challenge. So here’s a 24-hour itinerary that will show you the best bits of the city for less than the price of a pair of new shoes. 9.00am: <img id="3f3a2f12-3721-c321-ed58-417ed9702024" data-caption="" data-credit="LaPetiteCamera flickr.com/photos/lapetitecamera/" data-width-class="" type="image/jpeg" total="3149787" loaded="3149787" src="http://media.timeout.com/images/102593238/image.jpg" class="photo lazy inline"> LaPetiteCamera flickr.com/photos/lapetitecamera/   Start your day in Georgian New Town at Wellington Coffee. While the café’s name might recall the New Zealand city, the look is particularly Edinburgh. Located below a perfumery at 33a George Street, entering this coffee shop involves stepping down below street level in a way that’s characteristic of Scotland’s capital. The interior of the pint-sized coffee shop is decorated with vintage tiles and delicate line drawings, but the coffee is anything but kitsch. The expert baristas pull a punchy espresso from their Square Mile beans. Go for a wake-me-up flat white paired with one of their sizeable scones. Total cost: £4.85 9.30am:  Charles Hailbronner flickr.com/photos/chailbronner/ From Wellington house, take a small walking tour of some local landm