Una Mas
Don’t think of Una Más as a restaurant. Think of it more like sitting in the beachside dining room of a rich friend while the help pour drinks and prep dinner. A sea breeze drifts through the arched windows, ceramics fill the shelves, 20th-century portraits and still lifes – is that a Picasso? – hang carelessly on the wall. A Spritz lands, but it’s a new thing your host is trying, with sherry vermouth instead of Aperol, and pét-nat to top up. Nice. You secretly prefer the original, but of course you’d never say it. Glance at the kitchen and a Josper oven is running hot. On the marble counter, bread boards and artfully chipped bowls heave with plus-sized lemons, tomatoes and oysters on ice. Jamón legs swing lazily overhead. The only thing missing is the Smeg x Dolce & Gabbana fridge. Except you’re not at a house, you’re at Coogee Pavilion, Merivale’s multi-floor beachside behemoth. Downstairs kids jump and scream; upstairs 18-plusses do the same. But here in the middle it’s soft touches, ocean views and a new kind of fantasy, one where the line between restaurant and home is blurred magnificently, and luxury is sourcing outstanding ingredients then leaving them well enough alone. Step into Mimi’s, the flagship fine-dining restaurant across the hall, and this looks like caviar, mud crabs and Grand Cru Chablis. At Una Más, it looks like an homage to Iberian tapas bars. Not the stand-up, two-bite kind chef Jordan Toft apes at Bar Topa, but the sit-down, plate after plate, three-o