Aydan Stuart

Phuket is already rushing through December at full throttle, and there’s still another weekend to go! From foam-filled pool parties and beachfront house sessions to heavyweight bass takeovers and globe-trotting DJs, the island’s nightlife is firmly in blowout mode.    Whether you’re dancing ‘til sunrise in a club, catching chart-topping producers on a Friday night, or easing into sunset drinks by the pool, this week is stacked with reasons to stay out late.   Todd Terry returns with classic house at Armania, Tom Enzy takes over Illuzion with festival-sized energy, Moojo and Kashovski lock into deep afro-house grooves, and bassline legends Stanton Warriors lead a full-scale bass and drum ‘n’ bass takeover at Courage Bar. Add Cassia’s free foam pool party into the mix and you’ve got a week that covers every tempo – from sun-soaked afternoons to all-out, late-night bangers.

While Christmas does leave its mark on Chiang Mai this weekend, the city doesn’t shy away from a lot of other non-festive celebrations to strike a balance between local and international fun.    One minute, you’re sipping free-flow wine at the 1921 House Wine Club party in full ‘20s regalia, the next you’re dancing to jungle drum and bass until the sun rises deep in the jungle. That’s not to mention all the music festivals and parties happening in town, from absolute classics blasted across villages at Doi Saket’s end of year festival to modern must-see touring artists, including India’s hypnotic Da Minot and UK club legend Danny Rampling.

For years, Thailand’s cocktail crown sat firmly on Bangkok’s head, a city that’s saturated with rooftop bars and hidden speakeasies. But, in more recent years, energy has been shifting further afield, with a number of out-of-the-capital bars capturing the interest of drinkers and critics alike.    While Phuket’s beach-side cocktail scene has a wealthy market ready to sip on gold-infused martinis, Chiang Mai is taking a more creative approach that’s more in tune with its own audience. And out of the many Chiang Mai cocktail bars we’ve reviewed and shared along the way, a little speakeasy-style spot hidden up a flight of bright orange stairs is pushing the city onto the national (and now international) map: Bar Not Found.   In just over a year, this bright, quirky, colour-soaked cocktail den has snagged spots on multiple awards rankings and produced mixologists now making waves on the competitive circuit – from World Class Rising Star Thailand to the Sip Supernova finals in China.   Not bad for a bar that opened its secret living room lair for the first time in September 2024.   Photograph: Time Out – Apiwat Singharach Colour first, then the cocktails   The Bar Not Found story is disarmingly humble. Before launching a venue together, Foam, Game, Jane and Amber were already friends – bartenders, chefs and industry folks moving around Chiang Mai’s growing drinks scene.    Lockdowns, hidden bars and late-night ‘what ifs’ eventually solidified into a plan and the idea for Bar Not

Long before hashtags, influencers and TikTok, there was a small blue book that could be found tucked inside every backpacker’s pocket. Its author? Joe Cummings – the man who wrote the first ever Lonely Planet guide to Thailand and lifelong Thaiophile who introduced a generation to the kingdom’s best temples, towns and tuk tuk rides.  As a writer myself (with a few Lonely Planet books under my own belt, as it happens) I couldn’t help but jump at the opportunity to interview the legend himself on a recent Time Out Thailand podcast episode. Before I knew it, we were sat together in the podcast studio inside Sukhmuvit 31’s Public House. As planned, we switched into Thai – a second language for both of us – to begin unravelling the stories, surprises and side-quests of a writer, musician, actor and accidental cultural icon.    Photograph: Joe Cummings His first calling to Thailand was spiritual  Cummings’ story starts far from the tropics. Born in New Orleans and raised everywhere his army father was stationed, he grew up without a hometown – ‘we moved every two or three years,’ he recalls as we discuss his father’s role in the Army.  With travel in his blood, it’s little surprise that when he finally flew the nest, his compass pointed due east. Landing in Bangkok in 1977, he arrived just as Thailand was entering one of its most fascinating eras – a time where stories were just waiting to be told. Thailand in the late ’70s, he says, was ‘slower, quieter, and the air was worse.’

ก่อนจะมียุคออนไลน์ในปัจจุบันที่เต็มไปด้วยติ๊กต็อก เหล่าอินฟลูเอนเซอร์ และแฮชแท็กสารพัด โลกของนักเดินทางในสมัยก่อนนั้นมีเพียงหนังสือเล่มเล็กปกสีน้ำเงินที่แบ็กแพ็กเกอร์ทุกคนต่างพกติดกระเป๋าไว้เสมอ แล้วใครกันที่เป็นผู้เขียนมันขึ้นมา หากไม่ใช่ชายหนุ่มผู้หลงใหลในมนต์เสน่ห์ของสยามเมืองยิ้มอย่าง ‘โจ คัมมิงส์’ชายผู้จับปากกาเขียนไกด์บุ๊ก Lonely Planet Thailand เล่มแรก และเป็นผู้ที่หลงใหลในเมืองไทยแบบสุดหัวใจ ผู้พาคนทั้งยุคออกเดินทางไปรู้จักเสน่ห์ของอาณาจักรสยาม ตั้งแต่วัดที่งดงามที่สุด เมืองที่มีชีวิตชีวาไปจนถึงการนั่งตุ๊กตุ๊กที่ไม่มีวันลืม ตัวผม ในฐานะนักเขียนที่บังเอิญมีหนังสือ Lonely Planet อยู่บ้าง จึงไม่พลาดโอกาสที่จะได้พูดคุยกับตำนานที่ยังมีลมหายใจคนนี้ ในพอดแคสต์ตอนล่าสุดของ Time Out Thailand เรานั่งคุยกันที่ สตูดิโอ Public House ซอยสุขุมวิท 31 และตามแผนที่วางไว้ เราเริ่มต้นสนทนาเป็นภาษาไทย ภาษาที่สองของเราทั้งคู่ ซึ่งกลายมาเป็นสื่อกลางในการคลี่เรื่องราว ชีวิต และการเดินทางของนักเขียน นักดนตรี นักแสดง และ ‘ไอคอนทางวัฒนธรรมโดยบังเอิญ’ คนนี้   Photograph: Joe Cummings ‘จิตวิญญาณ’ เสียงเรียกแรกที่นำพาเขามาสู่แดนแห่งสยาม เรื่องราวของคัมมิงส์เริ่มต้นไกลจากดินแดนอาคเนย์อันร้อนระอุ เขาเกิดที่เมืองนิวออร์ลีนส์ สหรัฐอเมริกา แต่เติบโตตามทุกพื้นที่ที่ผู้เป็นพ่อถูกส่งไปประจำการในฐานะนายทหาร นั่นจึงเป็นเหตุผลที่เขาไม่เคยมีบ้านเกิดอยู่ที่ใดเลย ‘พวกเราเปลี่ยนที่อยู่ทุกสองถึงสามปี’ โจย้อนเล่าถึงวัยเด็กที่เต็มไปด้วยการเดินทางของเขาและพ่อผู้รับใช้ชาติ ดังนั้นการเดินทางจึงเหมือนอยู่ในสายเลือดของเขา และไม่น่าแปลกใจเลยเมื่อกนกตัวนี้ได้บินออกจากรังตามเข็มทิศที่ชี้ตรงไปทางทิศตะวันออก เขาโผยบินลงที่

It turns out, Thailand isn’t just a holiday hotspot, it’s a dream destination for many from all walks of life. Just this week, Chiang Mai ranked 14th on a list of the happiest cities worldwide, while in January, it reached 28th on Time Out’s 50 Best Cities in the World 2025 list.  Now, it’s the retiree’s time – with Forbes’ ‘Best Places to Retire Abroad in 2025’ list placing four Thai cities in the global shortlist: Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Phuket and Koh Samui. The list is unranked, leaving readers and those looking to retire without the pressure of aiming for number one. However, after some serious research Forbes identified 24 countries and 96 recommended spots for the best retirement out there – based on costs, amenities, health care, language, crime and climate risk. And, given it’s a US publication, the rankings also take into account whether American retirees are welcome – so we expect some bias based on this metric.  Either way, it’s hardly surprising that social media is already dubbing Thailand ‘the world’s retirement hub,’ with a growing desire for people to enjoy its unbeatable food and culture on a more long-term basis. Add a cost of living that still undercuts most of the West, and it’s easy to see why so many are trading in their drab morning commutes for fresh lunchtime coconuts. Here’s the cities that made the list and why we think they’re great for retirement. 

Feeling the Bangkok burnout? It happens to the best of us. Leaving the city, with its Michelin-starred temptations and glorious, beautiful chaos, feels like a betrayal. Here's the secret: you don't have to break up, just take a break. Thailand is packed with ridiculously easy getaways that feel like you've crossed a border, not just a province line. From the cool mountain air of Khao Yai to the sun-soaked beaches of Phuket and the serene shores of Koh Samui, these October getaways are made for slowing down and recharging. Whether you want to explore nature, unwind by the sea, or indulge in a peaceful resort escape, there’s something nearby to refresh your mind and spirit. This October, let these escapes remind you that a little getaway is sometimes all you need.

Chiang Mai’s got no shortage of good eats, but when the chefs are as obsessed with the origin of their ingredients as they are with flavour, you know you’re in for something special.  From wild salad plucked fresh from the mountains to complex 360-degree systems that leave nothing but a crumb of food waste, some of Chiang Mai’s most exciting kitchens are shrinking the distance between farm and fork in ways that actually make sense. Think high-rise romance over sunset dinners, long lunches that roll lazily into the afternoon and menus built entirely on local, seasonal, socially-conscious ingredients. With that much goodness baked into the concept alone, just imagine how good your soul’s going to feel once you’ve cleared your plate.

Rooftop bars can be often overlooked by visitors to Chiang Mai who assume our low-rise cityscape has little to offer above eye level. But look up and there’s a lot of fun to be had atop our taller hotels and Old City townhouses. What’s better than sitting above it all, cocktail in hand, enjoying the purple hues of sunset over Doi Suthep? Answer: not much. So with that in mind, let’s elevate your weekend (or week, we’re not judging) with a cocktail or two at the city’s best and most eclectic rooftop bars. 

Chiang Mai may be laid-back by day, but after dark the city reveals a more mysterious side. Tucked behind unmarked doors, winding alleys and quiet staircases are some of the city’s most intriguing watering holes – places where the cocktails are serious, the lights are low and finding the entrance will require a bit of detective work. From speakeasy-style lounges with live jazz to minimalist hideaways in heritage buildings, these hidden bars are where Chiang Mai’s creative energy and nightlife scene quietly thrive. You won’t find big signs or flashing lights – these spots may appear on Google Maps, but good luck finding your way in. If you don’t know the secret, you could be pushing bookshelves or following mysterious red lanterns like moths to a flame. We’ll give you a hint, but it’s the whisper of music down an otherwise empty alley that will be your beacon call.  Once you eventually find your way inside, cocktails laden with the best liquor available to man are to be found – from rare international reserves to our favourite locally distilled spirit, Sonklin, from Choeng Doi Distillery just up the road. With a bit of planning (and some comfortable shoes), it’s entirely possible to turn these tucked-away gems into a weekend-long bar crawl – or even squeeze into one night if you’re feeling brave. Instead, we’d opt for a relaxed weekend of shaken drinks, sultry jazz and mysterious discoveries made by candlelight.

Pizza. It’s a staple among almost all cultures. From questionable 2am slices from delivery chains that hit just right after a few towers of beer to artisanal, hand-crafted sourdough pies that practically demand a knife and fork they’re so fancy, there seems to be a love for this food that transcends social status. Uncles, aunties, politicians, teens, kids, tourists and locals – they all love a pizza pie and, honestly, so do we.  So, without further ado, here’s our best list of pizza spots in and around Chiang Mai that hit the spot on many levels, from that gloriously gooey grease-topped New York special to the crispiest of thin crusts topped with a whole burrata. Whatever form your pizza craving comes in, these are the slices that deliver the goods.

Ok, full disclosure, I don’t frequent nail bars too often. Although, with a wife, daughter and mother at home, I do probably visit them more than many other cisgender males. Either way, for the sake of accuracy, I’ve teamed up with my most informed nail bar addicts to bring together a list of Chiang Mai’s best nail bars this side of 2025. And while this list is not exhaustive, it is growing every day, so bookmark and revisit every time those ten shimmering finger ends need a little colour or pizzazz. 

SUB takes over Courage Bar with a full-force, two-room rave night bringing heavyweight garage and drum’n’bass artists and breakbeat legends Stanton Warriors to the Phuket clubscape. While the warriors are the clear headliner, they’re backed by an international lineup of neurofunk bruisers, including TNTKLZ, Thailand’s figurehead LINDZ (making his first ever Phuket debut), plus a deep bench of global and local selectors that keep the party going well into the wee hours. This one’s built for serious sound-system heads.   Dec 20. From B300, tickets here. Courage Bar. 9pm-4am

Illuzion Phuket welcomes DJ and producer Tom Enzy for a high-energy Friday night club stage party that celebrates his global chart success. With over 300 million streams to his name and collaborations with heavyweights like Hugel, Alok and Pitbull, the sound of Enzy’s tracks may be more familiar than you think. Seating ranges from B20,000 stage-front tables for up to four people to more manageable B4,000 second-floor tables that overlook the VIP dancefloor below. This one’s a big production, so dress the part and get locked in as he takes full control of the decks.   Dec 19. From B4,000, tickets here. Illuzion Phuket. 9pm-late 

Cassia Phuket turns up the fun just in time for the festive season with a sunshine-soaked pool party packed with foam, floats and feel-good energy. Live DJ spin all afternoon, while market-style food stalls keep you well-fed with everything from New York–style pizza to BBQ skewers and crispy deep fried favourites. A fully stocked pool bar keeps things silly (because no foam party is complete without a bit of booze), including happy-hour buy-one-get-one-free cocktails, mocktails, beers and wines if you come early enough. And with free entry, there’s really no excuse not to dive in and kick off the weekend covered in suds.    Dec 19. Free. Cassia Phuket. 4pm-7pm

Moojo and Kashovski come together for a full-spectrum afro-house session that adds a new meaning to sound clash parties. While Moojo leans into soulful, rolling grooves – including his much-talked-about remix of The Weeknd’s Moth to a Flame – Kashovski counters with darker, percussive textures and modern club intensity for a battle of musical prowess. Together, they set the tone for a club night that’s quite unusual for Phuket. Tickets are limited so get in early for the best spot on the dancefloor.    Dec 20. B1,500 advance, includes a free drink. MAYA Beach Club. 7pm-late

A true architect of house music returns as Todd Terry brings his timeless New York sound to Armania Phuket once again. Rising from Brooklyn’s underground in the late ’80s, Terry helped shape modern house by fusing classic disco, hip-hop sampling and raw club energy, going on to remix icons like Everything But The Girl, Björk and Jamiroquai. He’s hard to catch this side of Asia, so book yourself a ticket and submit to this masterclass performance at one of Phuket’s hottest clubs.   Dec 19. B300. Armania Phuket. 10pm-4am

360 Art Center swaps their mystical immersive experience for one far more festive one as they team up with Crafty Art Club to wrap the centre in festive wonder and incredible Christmas light shows for the whole family. Explore the festive atmosphere as the 360-degree domes are transformed into enchanting igloos or let little once dance under falling snow and get lost in the light-mapped northern lights that envelop the space. For more active folks, hands-on activities like DIY snow globe and ornament-making workshops scratch the itch. You can even meet Santa, then wind down with Christmas movies and hot chocolate. Who said Thailand doesn’t do Christmas?    Dec 21. B400 per person, family packages available. 360 Art Centre. 1-3pm, 3-5pm and 5-7pm.   

The Wine Club – a monthly party at Anantara Resort’s 1921 House – is going back in time with a dress up and dance party that channels the best of the roaring twenties. Dial into old-school glamour and drink free-flow curated wines with unlimited buffet eats and a sophisticated social buzz that has turned this party into an institution. Soundtracked by the one and only DJ Jerome, throw on some pearls and join good company for a night of fun, fashion and festivities. Just what you need to get in the holiday spirit. Dec 20. B1,291 per person, includes free-flow wine and canapes from 7-9pm. 1921 House, Anantara Chiang Mai Resort. 7pm-midnight 

This three-day community festival shines a spotlight on San Pulei – a culture-rich sub-district of Doi Saket – with food, fun and full-throttle local entertainment. You know the drill – sure there’s a lively market packed with street eats and OTOP products, kids’ zone and exhibitions showcasing the area’s craftsmanship, but it’s the evening stage performances that are the real highlight. Friday kicks off with a youthful luk thung competition and local bands, while Saturday and Sunday go fully amplified with grand light-and-sound shows, retro Thai folk and live performances from bands that include SL Music and Tu Daranee. A proper slice of Doi Saket, best enjoyed after dark.   Dec 19-21. Free. San Puloei Subdistrict Municipality, Doi Saket. 4pm onwards

One night before their Bangkok performance, Da Minot hit Chiang Mai on their international tour with a sound rooted in the rhythms and oral traditions of the Khasi community of Meghalaya. Blending indigenous knowledge systems with contemporary expression, the collective creates music that feels timeless yet striking, peculiar yet current – telling stories through their tunes, adding texture and human experience into the mix for a show unlike anything you’ve seen before. This is a ludicrously rare chance to catch a powerful musical force passing through the city, so who cares that it’s on a Wednesday!    Dec 17. Free. North Gate Jazz Co-op. 8.30pm-late

Just in time for Christmas, the fourth edition of Muan Muan Market is here with over 600 local and international makers for four days of quality gift shopping fun. Meet real artisans from across the region, browse beautifully made handmade goods and fuel your desire for overpending with plenty of food and drink along the way. It’s a rare chance to shop well, eat well and enjoy one of Chiang Mai’s most feel-good markets, especially with gift giving season right around the corner.     Dec 18-21. Free. Jing Jai Market. 11am-9pm (6.30am-9pm on the weekend). 

Freedomland turns wild with an all-night jungle party set deep under the trees just south of Doi Suthep mountain. Trees rustle with the hypnotic bass of house, techno, DNB and psytrance, soundtracking a full-sensory escape complete with fire shows, body glow paint, tarot readings and performances that blur the line between rave and ritual. With food, drinks and late-night transport sorted, this is one for night owls ready to dance ‘til sunrise.   Dec 20. B600. Jungle Freedomland CNX. 8pm-sunrise

Sky Flip Festival makes history as the first-ever Thai–Myanmar collaborative music festival in Chiang Mai, bringing together artists, creators and communities to flip perspectives and celebrate music between cultures. Borderless and energised, the artists and organisers are taking to the stage with rhythm, voice and a shared sense of unity and expression in the face of stirring changes to the local psyche. While focusing on youth artists, the festival unites both young and old from diverse backgrounds and fields, giving you a chance to listen, meet and mingle with the best local and regional artists, DJs and rappers all in one place.   Dec 20. B399, VIP tickets B699. Old Chiangmai Cultural Center. 4pm-late

Wherever you are in Thailand, fine dining has a tendency to show off. Big statements, rigid rituals and concept-heavy menus can sometimes leave diners more puzzled than pleased. And while I’m always open to having my horizons expanded, Cuisine de Garden’s latest seasonal revamp does something far more interesting: it lowers its voice and introduces a touch of sweetness instead. And while a few moments may make you second-guess your choices, a few mouthfuls in, you’ll be glad you didn’t.   Chiang Mai’s OG fine diner  Photograph: Aydan Stuart – Time Out Cuisine de Garden has built its reputation quietly over the years, emerging as one of Chiang Mai’s pioneering fine dining spots – appearing way before the local audience was ready.    From its outset, the restaurant set out to explore a ‘Lanna Nordic’ identity – pairing local Thai ingredients and culinary memory with Nordic techniques, playing into fermentation and a respect for seasonality.    Chef Leelawat ‘Nan’ Mankongtiphan leads the operation from the semi-open kitchen. With no formal training, they’re completely self-taught – an impressive feat in the face of big kitchen names that most fine diners pass through.    This gives way to some exciting quirks that I personally think only make the place better. Cuisine de Garden turns its back on strict plating and planning, instead allowing its menus to evolve in response to what’s available, with tasting menus that ebb and flow with the seasons, or whatever is found in the ma

If you’ve been following Chiang Mai Design Festival 2025 this year, you’ll know there’s been tons of local and international guests showing off their best all around the city. From music to art, fashion to technology, the north is buzzing and alive – making this one of the busiest and most exciting Of all the venues, Three Kings Monument may be the most interesting. There’s back-to-back happenings at both the Lanna Folklife Museum and Chiang Mai Arts and Cultural Centre just behind, but it’s what’s on the courtyard itself that has caught our attention.  Slap bang in the middle you’ll find the Russian-Thai Business Council (RTBC) pavilion – a bright white and orange display of Russian heritage, art, craft and contemporary design.  From Gzhel porcelain to contemporary fashion and design, the Russian Soul Pavilion brings three cultural landscapes of Russia into the heart of Chiang Mai. Discover it for free and try your hand at the creative workshops until December 14.  Photograph: Time Out Thailand Local Plus – Design Week theme with a Russian twist   For Vladimir Kovalev, Executive Director of RTBC, the decision to debut here was obvious. ‘Chiang Mai was our clear choice,’ he tells Time Out. ‘It’s not just a city; it’s Thailand’s creative capital.’    Visit on any given day and you’ll find Vladimir’s team – many having flown in specially from Moscow – keen to share their best. With design at the heart of the city this week, he adds ‘this philosophy perfectly matches what we w

At the end of the year, Chiang Mai turns into a living, breathing open-air playground with festivals, events, parties, expos and hangouts that mark the city’s highest season. And from December 6-14, Chiang Mai Design Week takes over the city, with over 300 events, workshops, galleries, pop-ups and concerts that feels equal parts creative conference and street festival.  Now 11 years strong, this year’s theme is all about ‘Local Plus’ – a powerup week where everyone – from designers, musicians and students to travellers, entrepreneurs, neighbourhood aunties – gets involved. It’s no doubt one of the best times to be in Chiang Mai, and to help you navigate the ocean of opportunities, here’s our lowdown on what to see and do this creative week.   Photograph: Chiang Mai Design Week So, what actually is Chiang Mai Design Week? At its core, it’s a festival that spotlights local creative talent – from designers and architects to artisans, technologists, food innovators, sustainable-living champions and emerging makers. The official mission (and they've stuck to it brilliantly) is simple: share ideas, build community and show how design can solve real-world problems. From December 6-14, you can expect to see:  Design exhibitions and installations  Hands-on workshops (ceramics, textiles, printmaking, woodworking – you name it, it's got it) Talks and panel discussions Live performances, music and full-blown concerts Experimental food and craft programmes Photograph: Chiang Mai Desi

Anyone who keeps an eye on Chiang Mai’s live-music undercurrent has almost certainly stumbled into a Terror Terror set. Maybe you caught them shaking things up at Mycelium last year, tearing through the stages at Thantawan Festival or perhaps blasting through the 2am haze at Yoda’s CNX Gallery.  Formed in Chiang Mai in 2023, Terror Terror has quickly become one of the city’s most popular homegrown alt-rock bands. The musicians, hailing from local and international homes, fuse Western post-punk urgency with Thai indie sensibilities – a combo that strikes hard among those in the local scene. Their single ‘Wasted’ hit number one on Bedroom Radio and climbed to number 13 on Cat Radio’s Top 100, later becoming one of Bedroom Studio’s 50 Most Played Tracks of 2023 among Thai listeners. Photograph: Terror Terror   Chiang Mai’s alternative music scene is rising The band sits within a rapidly shifting Chiang Mai soundscape. As Rosie, the lead singer, puts it, ‘Chiang Mai has a strong lineage of folk rock sound, but most people only see that sort of stuff performed at holiday celebrations or walking streets.’  So, over the last decade, indie, experimental and DIY venues have flourished among local music enthusiasts, reshaping the landscape – powered by pioneers like Chiang Mai Originalive, Minimal Records, North Gate, Tempo Wave, Punk Rock Chiang Mai, as well as a hometown festival circuit that is now booming.  The band’s identity spans genres – ‘a bit indie, punk and garage rock’ –

From all the restaurant’s I’ve visited in Chiang Mai, few come close to having a clearer mission than &Then. Walk inside and you might mistake it for just another wine bar, but as soon as you open the menu, you’ll find something different – and dare I say, deeper inside.  But before we get to the food, let’s take a step back and share the story of how &Then came to be, and then some (see what we did there?). Behind the fancy yet casually approachable restaurant and wine bar sits three partners – each of different heritage (this becomes important later).  Photograph: &Then Trish is the chef, and with a mixed Burmese heritage, she spends her time exploring the region discovering new food and reviving old ones too. ‘I grew up eating lots of Burmese food. Kapi, fish sauce – all Burmese,’ she said over a glass of wine when we visited to hear the story. ‘This influences a lot of the menu, but we don’t want to frame today’s Burmese community as the only group of migrants in Chiang Mai. Rather, we believe that all of us are migrants who have come to live in this place in different ways and at different times.’ Flicking through the menu, this is made more apparent. Some pages more recognisable than others, the options dart between Thai, Burmese, Chinese and Muslim dishes – all deeply connected to the roots of each partner.  Kanwara ‘Ben’ Huangsuwannakorn, another founder and creative director of &Then adds, ‘I grew up in a Chinese family, with many children, aunties and uncles under

Jazz fans (and music fans for that matter), prepare yourselves as Chiang Mai enters full swing. And by swing, we mean jazz, folk and all kinds of funky music played across the city as, for one full week, the mountainside city transforms into a living, breathing jazz stage as the Chiang Mai Street Jazz Festival returns for its 7th edition.  This citywide celebration of brass, soul, improvisation and good music reaches far and wide. From street corners inside the old city moat to intimate club sessions and a grand finale on the Chiang Mai Cultural Center’s main stage, this festival is where Chiang Mai shows exactly why it’s one of Southeast Asia’s fastest growing music hotspots. Whether you’re a diehard jazz listener, a casual genre-hopper or simply someone who loves an excuse to visit Chiang Mai, this is one of the most exciting citywide festivals of the year. And to make it extra easy to navigate the busy schedule, here’s everything you need to know before you go.     Photograph: Chiang Mai Street Jazz Festival   What exactly is the Chiang Mai Street Jazz Festival? Think jazz everywhere – performed in temples, cafes, parks, cultural spaces, clubs, bars, co-ops and on actual street corners. It’s a week where musicians spill out into the city, where locals and visitors wander between pop-up sets, and where you’re just as likely to stumble upon a late-afternoon sax solo as you are a midnight jam session. The festival’s theme for 2025 – ‘Chiang Mai Jazz City: Let the City Play

Chiang Rai turns up the volume this cool season as the Chiang Rai Jazz Festival 2025 makes its encore, sending trumpets, basslines and brassy bursts out across the north. Under the theme ‘Analog Pulse,’ the Chiang Rai Contemporary Art Museum (CCAM) shifts from quiet gallery to full-bodied music playground, celebrating all things analogue. From vinyl to live instruments, acoustic sets and physical art, this year’s ‘jazz’ feels more eclectic than ever before. Sure, it may be a ‘jazz festival’, but this year’s lineup is anything but narrow. Headlining this year is the internationally-acclaimed Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band (we can’t get enough of them, honestly), supported by Chiang Mai’s own Rasmee Isan Soul – another one of our faves.  They’re joined by Natt Buntita x PYC, PETITE, Jūji, Nice Guys, Groovy Doopy, Khela, Overload and a wave of other rising northern talent pushing the festival into bolder, more eclectic territory. Throw in some vinyl DJs spinning warm grooves and you’re all-set this weekend. Plus, for the more proactive of us out there, hands-on art workshops, kinetic gallery installations and food stalls all add up to be the most ‘more-than-jazz’ jazz festival the region’s seen to date. And, if you’re flying in specially, why not pair the weekend with a high-energy ‘90s-themed brunch at Le Méridien Chiang Rai – their Italian restaurant, Favola, is to die for.  With its mix of international acts and homegrown talent, Chiang Rai Jazz Festival is quietly

A new global poll by Time Out has named Chiang Mai the 14th happiest city in the world, ranking it ahead of dozens of major world cities, underscoring its appeal as one of the best places to live. The survey, which polled more than 18,000 city-dwellers, asked urbanites across the world how their city makes them feel – including whether they find joy in everyday life, perceive neighbours as happy and feel their sense of happiness has grown recently. From that, we compiled a definitive list of the top 20 happiest cities, with Chiang Mai emerging as Thailand’s sole entry and the highest-ranking city in Southeast Asia. The happiness index was based on the percentage of positive responses to five key statements: ‘My city makes me happy’; ‘I feel happier here than in other places I’ve lived or visited’; ‘People in my city seem happy’; ‘I find joy in the everyday experiences my city offers’; and ‘The sense of happiness in my city has grown a lot recently’. This latest ranking follows Time Out’s 50 Best Cities in the World 2025 list, published earlier this year, where Chiang Mai placed 28 thanks to its growing reputation for excellent cuisine and third-most affordable place to eat out at a restaurant in all 50 cities.

Two of the city’s most innovative cocktail bars  – Bar.San and Bar Not Found – earned national acclaim at the weekend, landing at numbers 10 and 12 respectively on Thailand’s 20 Best Bars 2025 list, revealed at this year’s Bangkok Bar Show Awards. While Bangkok’s heavyweights took the top spots (see the full list here on Time Out Bangkok), Chiang Mai proved it can hold its tipple, with both bars recognised for creativity, craftsmanship and boundary-pushing alcoholic beverages. Bar.San, the sophisticated sister to Noir CMI and its neighbouring jazz-inspired venues, not only placed 10 overall but also took home the title of Best Bar in Chiang Mai. Meanwhile, Bar Not Found – the city’s ultra-modern, Pantone-themed cocktail bar – came in at 12 with nods to its colourful cocktails and brightly lit conceptual flair. The Bangkok Bar Show was co-founded in 2019 by Thailand’s cocktail pioneer Niks Anuman and Singapore’s Colin Chia, who built events that not only spotlight the country’s best bars but also celebrates Southeast Asia’s rising fine-drinking culture and spirited creativity.  And while there’s many more we think could have made the list (check out our best hidden cocktail bar list here), when you’re next in town, head to Bar San for some moody elegance and masterfully balanced classics, or pull up a stool at the well-hidden Bar Not Found – but only if you can find the right doorway first.

As the Yi Peng festival looms closer, lantern sales are up – but beware, there are strict rules this year on where you can release them. From November 5-6, Chiang Mai officially celebrates Yi Peng – the northern counterpart to Loy Krathong is usually celebrated by releasing paper lanterns into the sky, often adorned with names, wishes and prayers to the gods. This year, authorities have drawn up six ‘surveillance zones’ where launching anything that flies, sparks or explodes is strictly off limits. Red Zones, where lantern release is strictly prohibited, includes Hang Dong, Saraphi, San Sai, Mae Rim, San Patong, Muang Chiang Mai and the ‘Toffy Zone’ – a designated flight safe area that stretches 15km north and south from the airport.  If you still want that picture-perfect lantern release for your social media stories, you’ll need to head to one of the few officially approved events, CAD Yi Peng Sky Lantern Festival, where thousands of lanterns are set free in one go under strict safety rules. Take this as your warning: if you ignore the ban, you face up to five years in prison and a fine of up to B200,000. This almost doubles if your lantern starts a fire.  If, after all this, you’re still planning your own mini-release, then keep it green by using only biodegradable materials that vanish within a year – yes, this is also a strictly enforced rule from this year.  So if you’re planning to release a lantern this year, swap out the old frames for biodegradable ones and send off

Known to some, new to many, Chiang Mai’s newest (or maybe oldest) natural wonder has had a makeover fit for explorers. Mae Sap Cave – better known as Tham Sai Rung, or Rainbow Cave – has officially reopened after a transformation from dark and dingy hollow to dazzling geological wonder. Once submerged in water, the dramatic stalactites and stalagmites have frozen mid-drip, a dramatic time capsule millions of years in the making. What is new, however, is the visitor-friendly spruce-up: safe pathways, lighting and a proper chance to admire its natural spectacle without a miner’s helmet.  Inside, you’ll find four chambers – Rainbow, Chapel, Emerald and Diamond – each with its own otherworldly formations. Think towing columns, heart-shaped stones and imaginative shadow casting outcrops that form shapes of animals and ghosts.  The star of the show, though, must be the rainbow of colours that ripple across the walls and ceilings, where layers of white, grey, ochre and brown-yellow limestone bands tell their own story of time. Stretching 144 metres in length, the cave can be found inside Samoeng’s Khun Khan National Park, some 90 minutes west of Chiang Mai city centre. While far from the city, entrance is just B100, making it the perfect excuse to swap strawberry picking for subterranean sightseeing instead.

If you thought that Warm Up was only about rock riffs and EDM drops, think again. This month, the city’s favourite nightclub is flipping the script by hosting the legendary ‘50s doo-wop band The Platters for the first time in Chiang Mai history.  The Platters Experience – Sleepy Lagoon brings the timeless sound of the oldies to the city later this month with a live concert at Warmup Cafe across two matinee shows on Sep 20-21.  Tickets cost B2,500 and promise an exclusive experience with the inclusion of premium Martell cognac, fine wines, tasty snacks and a jazzy warm-up ensemble before the main act. Better yet, part of the proceeds go directly to Mae On Hospital to help renovate their outpatient wing. It’s giving good vibes with good intentions. Photograph: The Platters With seating capped at just 150 per show, exclusivity is the name of the game. For two nights only, this is likely the first (and possibly last) time Chiang Mai gets to hear these iconic harmonies live. Don’t sleep on this one. With an evolving line up of band members, their hits remain eternal. Expect spine-tingling renditions of classics like ‘Only You’, ‘The Great Pretender’, and ‘Smoke Gets in Your Eyes’.  Secure your spot by calling 02-113-1234 or messaging the dedicated ticket booking LINE account @theplatterscnx.