Aydan Stuart is a writer, creative and travel editor based in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Beginning his journey in journalism, he has since embraced a career that blends branding, creative leadership and storytelling, driven by a deep passion for sharing his passion for Thailand with others. He has authored four Lonely Planet guidebooks, is a travel columnist for the Telegraph and hosts a weekly radio show on Radio Thailand. When he's not at his desk, you’ll find him exploring wild mountain trails, indulging in new culinary experiences or seeking out fun, whisky-infused atmospheres.

Aydan Stuart

Aydan Stuart

Time Out Chiang Mai Editor

Articles (43)

The best things to do in Chiang Mai this weekend (December 11-14)

The best things to do in Chiang Mai this weekend (December 11-14)

December in Chiang Mai is one of the best times in the city, and this weekend bursts through the door carrying armfuls of vinyl, circus torches, indie art installations, Christmas lights and about a million local bands ready to blast your socks off. As the city delves deeper and deeper into festival mode, if your calendar isn’t overflowing with things to tick off, then here’s your cue to get it filled.    As Chiang Mai Design Week plays out its penultimate few days, Taiwan Beats lands with a multi-dimensional music exhibition, Chiang Mai HO Zix rallies the city’s best homegrown artists and Wildside throws its iconic Christmas market. In town, Yoda’s Gallery goes full rock-metal, while the MoC lights up a circus fundraiser with special guests all the way from the States. And then there’s Poy Festival – probably Thailand’s largest vinyl-centric fest that doesn’t shy away from the obscure.
The best things to do in Phuket this weekend (December 11-14)

The best things to do in Phuket this weekend (December 11-14)

Whether you’re chasing afro-house on the sand, shouting ‘he’s behind you’ at a festive Junkyard Theatre panto, or grazing through a local craft market before stuffing your face with sizzling seafood buffet grills, the island has you covered for any excuse or celebration. This is where your weekend plans get a whole lot better.
Bar Not Found proves Chiang Mai’s cocktail scene is brighter than ever

Bar Not Found proves Chiang Mai’s cocktail scene is brighter than ever

For years, Thailand’s cocktail crown sat firmly on Bangkok’s head, a city that’s saturated with rooftop bars and hidden speakeasies. But, in more recent years, energy has been shifting further afield, with a number of out-of-the-capital bars capturing the interest of drinkers and critics alike.    While Phuket’s beach-side cocktail scene has a wealthy market ready to sip on gold-infused martinis, Chiang Mai is taking a more creative approach that’s more in tune with its own audience. And out of the many Chiang Mai cocktail bars we’ve reviewed and shared along the way, a little speakeasy-style spot hidden up a flight of bright orange stairs is pushing the city onto the national (and now international) map: Bar Not Found.   In just over a year, this bright, quirky, colour-soaked cocktail den has snagged spots on multiple awards rankings and produced mixologists now making waves on the competitive circuit – from World Class Rising Star Thailand to the Sip Supernova finals in China.   Not bad for a bar that opened its secret living room lair for the first time in September 2024.   Photograph: Time Out – Apiwat Singharach Colour first, then the cocktails   The Bar Not Found story is disarmingly humble. Before launching a venue together, Foam, Game, Jane and Amber were already friends – bartenders, chefs and industry folks moving around Chiang Mai’s growing drinks scene.    Lockdowns, hidden bars and late-night ‘what ifs’ eventually solidified into a plan and the idea for Bar Not
Joe Cummings: The man who put Thailand on the tourist map

Joe Cummings: The man who put Thailand on the tourist map

Long before hashtags, influencers and TikTok, there was a small blue book that could be found tucked inside every backpacker’s pocket. Its author? Joe Cummings – the man who wrote the first ever Lonely Planet guide to Thailand and lifelong Thaiophile who introduced a generation to the kingdom’s best temples, towns and tuk tuk rides.  As a writer myself (with a few Lonely Planet books under my own belt, as it happens) I couldn’t help but jump at the opportunity to interview the legend himself on a recent Time Out Thailand podcast episode. Before I knew it, we were sat together in the podcast studio inside Sukhmuvit 31’s Public House. As planned, we switched into Thai – a second language for both of us – to begin unravelling the stories, surprises and side-quests of a writer, musician, actor and accidental cultural icon.    Photograph: Joe Cummings His first calling to Thailand was spiritual  Cummings’ story starts far from the tropics. Born in New Orleans and raised everywhere his army father was stationed, he grew up without a hometown – ‘we moved every two or three years,’ he recalls as we discuss his father’s role in the Army.  With travel in his blood, it’s little surprise that when he finally flew the nest, his compass pointed due east. Landing in Bangkok in 1977, he arrived just as Thailand was entering one of its most fascinating eras – a time where stories were just waiting to be told. Thailand in the late ’70s, he says, was ‘slower, quieter, and the air was worse.’
โจ คัมมิงส์ ชายผู้ปักหมุดประเทศไทยบนแผนที่การท่องเที่ยวระดับโลก

โจ คัมมิงส์ ชายผู้ปักหมุดประเทศไทยบนแผนที่การท่องเที่ยวระดับโลก

ก่อนจะมียุคออนไลน์ในปัจจุบันที่เต็มไปด้วยติ๊กต็อก เหล่าอินฟลูเอนเซอร์ และแฮชแท็กสารพัด โลกของนักเดินทางในสมัยก่อนนั้นมีเพียงหนังสือเล่มเล็กปกสีน้ำเงินที่แบ็กแพ็กเกอร์ทุกคนต่างพกติดกระเป๋าไว้เสมอ แล้วใครกันที่เป็นผู้เขียนมันขึ้นมา หากไม่ใช่ชายหนุ่มผู้หลงใหลในมนต์เสน่ห์ของสยามเมืองยิ้มอย่าง ‘โจ คัมมิงส์’ชายผู้จับปากกาเขียนไกด์บุ๊ก Lonely Planet Thailand เล่มแรก และเป็นผู้ที่หลงใหลในเมืองไทยแบบสุดหัวใจ ผู้พาคนทั้งยุคออกเดินทางไปรู้จักเสน่ห์ของอาณาจักรสยาม ตั้งแต่วัดที่งดงามที่สุด เมืองที่มีชีวิตชีวาไปจนถึงการนั่งตุ๊กตุ๊กที่ไม่มีวันลืม ตัวผม ในฐานะนักเขียนที่บังเอิญมีหนังสือ Lonely Planet อยู่บ้าง จึงไม่พลาดโอกาสที่จะได้พูดคุยกับตำนานที่ยังมีลมหายใจคนนี้ ในพอดแคสต์ตอนล่าสุดของ Time Out Thailand เรานั่งคุยกันที่ สตูดิโอ Public House ซอยสุขุมวิท 31 และตามแผนที่วางไว้ เราเริ่มต้นสนทนาเป็นภาษาไทย ภาษาที่สองของเราทั้งคู่ ซึ่งกลายมาเป็นสื่อกลางในการคลี่เรื่องราว ชีวิต และการเดินทางของนักเขียน นักดนตรี นักแสดง และ ‘ไอคอนทางวัฒนธรรมโดยบังเอิญ’ คนนี้   Photograph: Joe Cummings ‘จิตวิญญาณ’ เสียงเรียกแรกที่นำพาเขามาสู่แดนแห่งสยาม เรื่องราวของคัมมิงส์เริ่มต้นไกลจากดินแดนอาคเนย์อันร้อนระอุ เขาเกิดที่เมืองนิวออร์ลีนส์ สหรัฐอเมริกา แต่เติบโตตามทุกพื้นที่ที่ผู้เป็นพ่อถูกส่งไปประจำการในฐานะนายทหาร นั่นจึงเป็นเหตุผลที่เขาไม่เคยมีบ้านเกิดอยู่ที่ใดเลย ‘พวกเราเปลี่ยนที่อยู่ทุกสองถึงสามปี’ โจย้อนเล่าถึงวัยเด็กที่เต็มไปด้วยการเดินทางของเขาและพ่อผู้รับใช้ชาติ ดังนั้นการเดินทางจึงเหมือนอยู่ในสายเลือดของเขา และไม่น่าแปลกใจเลยเมื่อกนกตัวนี้ได้บินออกจากรังตามเข็มทิศที่ชี้ตรงไปทางทิศตะวันออก เขาโผยบินลงที่
Thailand is officially one of the world’s best places to retire

Thailand is officially one of the world’s best places to retire

It turns out, Thailand isn’t just a holiday hotspot, it’s a dream destination for many from all walks of life. Just this week, Chiang Mai ranked 14th on a list of the happiest cities worldwide, while in January, it reached 28th on Time Out’s 50 Best Cities in the World 2025 list.  Now, it’s the retiree’s time – with Forbes’ ‘Best Places to Retire Abroad in 2025’ list placing four Thai cities in the global shortlist: Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Phuket and Koh Samui. The list is unranked, leaving readers and those looking to retire without the pressure of aiming for number one. However, after some serious research Forbes identified 24 countries and 96 recommended spots for the best retirement out there – based on costs, amenities, health care, language, crime and climate risk. And, given it’s a US publication, the rankings also take into account whether American retirees are welcome – so we expect some bias based on this metric.  Either way, it’s hardly surprising that social media is already dubbing Thailand ‘the world’s retirement hub,’ with a growing desire for people to enjoy its unbeatable food and culture on a more long-term basis. Add a cost of living that still undercuts most of the West, and it’s easy to see why so many are trading in their drab morning commutes for fresh lunchtime coconuts. Here’s the cities that made the list and why we think they’re great for retirement. 
5 Top getaways in Thailand this October

5 Top getaways in Thailand this October

Feeling the Bangkok burnout? It happens to the best of us. Leaving the city, with its Michelin-starred temptations and glorious, beautiful chaos, feels like a betrayal. Here's the secret: you don't have to break up, just take a break. Thailand is packed with ridiculously easy getaways that feel like you've crossed a border, not just a province line. From the cool mountain air of Khao Yai to the sun-soaked beaches of Phuket and the serene shores of Koh Samui, these October getaways are made for slowing down and recharging. Whether you want to explore nature, unwind by the sea, or indulge in a peaceful resort escape, there’s something nearby to refresh your mind and spirit. This October, let these escapes remind you that a little getaway is sometimes all you need.
The 4 best farm-to-table restaurants in Chiang Mai

The 4 best farm-to-table restaurants in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai’s got no shortage of good eats, but when the chefs are as obsessed with the origin of their ingredients as they are with flavour, you know you’re in for something special.  From wild salad plucked fresh from the mountains to complex 360-degree systems that leave nothing but a crumb of food waste, some of Chiang Mai’s most exciting kitchens are shrinking the distance between farm and fork in ways that actually make sense. Think high-rise romance over sunset dinners, long lunches that roll lazily into the afternoon and menus built entirely on local, seasonal, socially-conscious ingredients. With that much goodness baked into the concept alone, just imagine how good your soul’s going to feel once you’ve cleared your plate.
The 5 best rooftop bars in Chiang Mai

The 5 best rooftop bars in Chiang Mai

Rooftop bars can be often overlooked by visitors to Chiang Mai who assume our low-rise cityscape has little to offer above eye level. But look up and there’s a lot of fun to be had atop our taller hotels and Old City townhouses. What’s better than sitting above it all, cocktail in hand, enjoying the purple hues of sunset over Doi Suthep? Answer: not much. So with that in mind, let’s elevate your weekend (or week, we’re not judging) with a cocktail or two at the city’s best and most eclectic rooftop bars. 
Chiang Mai’s 8 best hidden cocktail bars

Chiang Mai’s 8 best hidden cocktail bars

Chiang Mai may be laid-back by day, but after dark the city reveals a more mysterious side. Tucked behind unmarked doors, winding alleys and quiet staircases are some of the city’s most intriguing watering holes – places where the cocktails are serious, the lights are low and finding the entrance will require a bit of detective work. From speakeasy-style lounges with live jazz to minimalist hideaways in heritage buildings, these hidden bars are where Chiang Mai’s creative energy and nightlife scene quietly thrive. You won’t find big signs or flashing lights – these spots may appear on Google Maps, but good luck finding your way in. If you don’t know the secret, you could be pushing bookshelves or following mysterious red lanterns like moths to a flame. We’ll give you a hint, but it’s the whisper of music down an otherwise empty alley that will be your beacon call.  Once you eventually find your way inside, cocktails laden with the best liquor available to man are to be found – from rare international reserves to our favourite locally distilled spirit, Sonklin, from Choeng Doi Distillery just up the road. With a bit of planning (and some comfortable shoes), it’s entirely possible to turn these tucked-away gems into a weekend-long bar crawl – or even squeeze into one night if you’re feeling brave. Instead, we’d opt for a relaxed weekend of shaken drinks, sultry jazz and mysterious discoveries made by candlelight.
The 5 best pizza places in Chiang Mai

The 5 best pizza places in Chiang Mai

Pizza. It’s a staple among almost all cultures. From questionable 2am slices from delivery chains that hit just right after a few towers of beer to artisanal, hand-crafted sourdough pies that practically demand a knife and fork they’re so fancy, there seems to be a love for this food that transcends social status. Uncles, aunties, politicians, teens, kids, tourists and locals – they all love a pizza pie and, honestly, so do we.  So, without further ado, here’s our best list of pizza spots in and around Chiang Mai that hit the spot on many levels, from that gloriously gooey grease-topped New York special to the crispiest of thin crusts topped with a whole burrata. Whatever form your pizza craving comes in, these are the slices that deliver the goods.
The 6 best nail bars in Chiang Mai

The 6 best nail bars in Chiang Mai

Ok, full disclosure, I don’t frequent nail bars too often. Although, with a wife, daughter and mother at home, I do probably visit them more than many other cisgender males. Either way, for the sake of accuracy, I’ve teamed up with my most informed nail bar addicts to bring together a list of Chiang Mai’s best nail bars this side of 2025. And while this list is not exhaustive, it is growing every day, so bookmark and revisit every time those ten shimmering finger ends need a little colour or pizzazz. 

Listings and reviews (440)

Feel the ‘Movement’ and dance the night away absolutely sober

Feel the ‘Movement’ and dance the night away absolutely sober

This isn’t a night out, this is an alternative sober dance party that celebrates connection above the influence. Movement is the name and music, rhythm and connection is the game.  Hip hop, R&B, afrobeats, house and afro-house all weave into one seamless current of sound, sans all the usual lasers, fog and gimmicks. This one is for those who like to stay switched on when they party and let their endorphins rise with deep bass and clear minds in a room with those truly awake. Alongside the music, expect hands-on creativity with jewellery-making, pottery and crafts, plus tea, food and cosy corners to unwind when the moment calls.    Dec 13. B200. Soul House Chiang Mai. 5pm-11pm 
Check out Chiang Mai Ho Zix, the city’s biggest original music festival

Check out Chiang Mai Ho Zix, the city’s biggest original music festival

Chiang Mai Ho Zix turns the city into a four-day soundtrack of original anthems, showcasing 40 local artists across every genre you can dream up. From new and inspired luk thung rising stars to dream pop bands, blues, fusion jazz, northern folk and electrifying rock – it’s the ultimate chance to discover just how diverse, creative and cool Chiang Mai’s homegrown music scene truly is. Already well under way, there’s only a few days left for you to catch it. Thankfully, they’re saving the best ‘til last, kicking off with RibbindaSky at 5pm followed by local legends Aek Wild Sax, Sanimyok and Suthep Band to name a few.    Dec 8-11. Free. UNISERV Chiang Mai University. 5pm-midnight 
Step inside a 3D world showcasing Taiwan’s hottest indie art scenes

Step inside a 3D world showcasing Taiwan’s hottest indie art scenes

Taiwan Beats brings an immersive slice of the island’s indie culture to Chiang Mai with an exhibition you can touch, unfold, collect – and quite literally zoom into. Explore album-sculptures, monster-world storytelling kits, hip-hop tribe maps, festival memory walls, live music performances and cutting-edge XR/AR tech that reimagines how we experience music through our every sense. It’s a vivid, four-dimensional leap into the creativity shaping Taiwan’s contemporary sound, and it’s here in the city for just one week as part of the Chiang Mai Design Week exhibition.    Dec 4-14. Free. Chiang Mai Arts and Cultural Centre. Various times 
Rock out hard with Yoda at Life Rock Metal night

Rock out hard with Yoda at Life Rock Metal night

Yoda’s CNX Gallery turns the volume way up with a night dedicated to iconic Thai rock anthems and heavy-hitting nu-metal. Warm up with Carabao and Loso tribute sets before things get turned up to 11 when DJ Iydz and DJ Minotaur spin late into the night. Tickets are just B100 and include a drink – perfect fuel for any full-throttle Friday fans.   Dec 12. B100, includes a drink. Yoda’s CNX Gallery. 9.30pm-late 
Get festive and stock up on presents at the Wildside Christmas Market

Get festive and stock up on presents at the Wildside Christmas Market

Take Christmas to the wildside with two nights of busy markets, community fun and a sprinkling of cosy cheer. From tasty eats and drinks to gifts, souvenirs, workshops, bonfires, a pump track and even an after-party, it’s the city’s most feel-good Christmas tradition – warm, lively and packed with good people taking a day off from their usual adventure sports activities. Make an appearance and bring some cash to spend, this one’s got your seasonal shopping sorted.    Dec 13-14. Free. Wildside Chiang Mai. 4pm-late
Come together for a cause at the MoC Circus and Fire Show

Come together for a cause at the MoC Circus and Fire Show

Memories of Chiang Mai are lighting up the night for a good cause with a special family-friendly circus and fire show in support of communities affected by the devastating floods in southern Thailand. Heart- and face-warming fire shows, circus antics and dazzling live performances from a collaboration of eight Thai organisations are all on the cards, including special guests, Spoon Circus, straight from the US. Every baht raised goes towards essential supplies – food, bedding, medicines and more – for those in the south who need it most.    Dec 12. Entry by donation. Memories of Chiang Mai. 4.30pm onwards
Spin into Thailand’s burgeoning vinyl scene at Poy Festival

Spin into Thailand’s burgeoning vinyl scene at Poy Festival

Chiang Mai’s biggest and best independent vinyl festival is back, this time for three days of unadulterated record digging, beat chasing and conversations with the music industry’s best. The weekend starts with a Friday free-for-all in the vinyl market, opening market doors for free (you’ll still need to pay to enter the concert stage) to dozens of vendors selling rare vinyl, CDs, cassettes and audio gear. The rest of the weekend continues in the same fashion, with talks, workshops and live performances from some of Thailand's best – peppered with a fair share of international acts too. A three-day soundtrack for collectors, casual listeners and crate-diggers, with nothing else quite like it around.   Dec 12-14. B2,290 for three days, B1,390 for one. Old Chiangmai. 2pm-late 
Serve up a plate of Phuket’s fabulous flavour at Dusit Local Feast

Serve up a plate of Phuket’s fabulous flavour at Dusit Local Feast

Dusit Laguna brings the island’s culinary culture to life with an evening that blends a bustling night market with a mouthwatering BBQ buffet bonanza. Wander through stalls of handmade crafts and local treasures before sitting down to a chef-crafted feast of grilled favourites, seafood classics and a helping of homebaked sweetness. Relaxed, family-friendly and certainly filling, it’s one of those nights perfect for groups, kids and food lovers alike. Come on time to make the most of the buffet.    Dec 11. B1,790 per person, market entry is free. Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket. 6pm-10pm 
Dance to the Tulum Moon with sounds of Omnya at Maya Beach Club

Dance to the Tulum Moon with sounds of Omnya at Maya Beach Club

Maya Beach Club ignites the season with the return of Omnya, the DJ duo celebrated for their organic, mystical and pulse-deep sets. Aptly named ‘Tulum Moon’ – this party is all about channeling the rhythm of ancient tribal sound, elevated with psytrance beats, huge drops, fire rituals and immersive lights that transform the beach into a jungle-festival dreamscape for a classic Phuket beach party that doesn’t stop at midnight.    Dec 13. Free. Maya Beach Club. 6pm-2am 
Stuff yourself silly with bubbles and oysters at Casuarina

Stuff yourself silly with bubbles and oysters at Casuarina

Sundays get a serious glow-up at Casuarina Beach Club, where sea-fresh oysters meet crisp, sparkling wine and champers at Casuarina, a buzzing beachfront club just steps from the sand. Settle into the chic, laid-back setting and work your way through a premium selection of oysters and other seafood delights, perfectly paired with all the fizzy booze you could ask for. Sure, Monday is just around the corner, but don’t the best weeks start on a Sunday?   Dec 14 (and every Sunday this month). B1,550 per person. Casuarina Beach Club. 12pm-4pm 
Cheer, boo, shout ‘look behind you’ at Romeo and Juliet: The Panto

Cheer, boo, shout ‘look behind you’ at Romeo and Juliet: The Panto

Theatrix turns Shakespeare upside down with a riotous, family-friendly panto packed with songs, slapstick comedy and gloriously bad jokes, marking the official start of the theatre’s Christmas season – British style. Take to the stands and prepare your gut for big laughs, silly audience participation and plenty of chances to cheer the heroes and boo the villains. It’s loud, silly and easily Phuket’s funniest festive night out for all ages.   Dec 7-12. B850 per person. Junkyard Theatre. 6.30pm 
Feel the pulse of afro-house at Kitty Amor’s live set

Feel the pulse of afro-house at Kitty Amor’s live set

Cafe del Mar brings in UK powerhouse DJ and producer Kitty Amor for a night of deep, soulful afro-house. Fresh from stages like Glastonbury, Tomorrowland and Ibiza, she lands in Phuket ready to throw her signature intensity to the crowd. If any of her other sets are anything to go by, expect a powerful, emotionally charged performance that’ll make every grain of sand vibrate from lights up to mic drop.    Dec 12. Free. Cafe del Mar. 10pm onwards 

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Chiang Mai Design Week 2025: All you need to know

Chiang Mai Design Week 2025: All you need to know

At the end of the year, Chiang Mai turns into a living, breathing open-air playground with festivals, events, parties, expos and hangouts that mark the city’s highest season. And from December 6-14, Chiang Mai Design Week takes over the city, with over 300 events, workshops, galleries, pop-ups and concerts that feels equal parts creative conference and street festival.  Now 11 years strong, this year’s theme is all about ‘Local Plus’ – a powerup week where everyone – from designers, musicians and students to travellers, entrepreneurs, neighbourhood aunties – gets involved. It’s no doubt one of the best times to be in Chiang Mai, and to help you navigate the ocean of opportunities, here’s our lowdown on what to see and do this creative week.   Photograph: Chiang Mai Design Week So, what actually is Chiang Mai Design Week? At its core, it’s a festival that spotlights local creative talent – from designers and architects to artisans, technologists, food innovators, sustainable-living champions and emerging makers. The official mission (and they've stuck to it brilliantly) is simple: share ideas, build community and show how design can solve real-world problems. From December 6-14, you can expect to see:  Design exhibitions and installations  Hands-on workshops (ceramics, textiles, printmaking, woodworking – you name it, it's got it) Talks and panel discussions Live performances, music and full-blown concerts Experimental food and craft programmes Photograph: Chiang Mai Desi
A moment of Terror Terror in Chiang Mai

A moment of Terror Terror in Chiang Mai

Anyone who keeps an eye on Chiang Mai’s live-music undercurrent has almost certainly stumbled into a Terror Terror set. Maybe you caught them shaking things up at Mycelium last year, tearing through the stages at Thantawan Festival or perhaps blasting through the 2am haze at Yoda’s CNX Gallery.  Formed in Chiang Mai in 2023, Terror Terror has quickly become one of the city’s most popular homegrown alt-rock bands. The musicians, hailing from local and international homes, fuse Western post-punk urgency with Thai indie sensibilities – a combo that strikes hard among those in the local scene. Their single ‘Wasted’ hit number one on Bedroom Radio and climbed to number 13 on Cat Radio’s Top 100, later becoming one of Bedroom Studio’s 50 Most Played Tracks of 2023 among Thai listeners. Photograph: Terror Terror   Chiang Mai’s alternative music scene is rising The band sits within a rapidly shifting Chiang Mai soundscape. As Rosie, the lead singer, puts it, ‘Chiang Mai has a strong lineage of folk rock sound, but most people only see that sort of stuff performed at holiday celebrations or walking streets.’  So, over the last decade, indie, experimental and DIY venues have flourished among local music enthusiasts, reshaping the landscape – powered by pioneers like Chiang Mai Originalive, Minimal Records, North Gate, Tempo Wave, Punk Rock Chiang Mai, as well as a hometown festival circuit that is now booming.  The band’s identity spans genres – ‘a bit indie, punk and garage rock’ –
This Chiang Mai restaurant is challenging what you know about local food

This Chiang Mai restaurant is challenging what you know about local food

From all the restaurant’s I’ve visited in Chiang Mai, few come close to having a clearer mission than &Then. Walk inside and you might mistake it for just another wine bar, but as soon as you open the menu, you’ll find something different – and dare I say, deeper inside.  But before we get to the food, let’s take a step back and share the story of how &Then came to be, and then some (see what we did there?). Behind the fancy yet casually approachable restaurant and wine bar sits three partners – each of different heritage (this becomes important later).  Photograph: &Then Trish is the chef, and with a mixed Burmese heritage, she spends her time exploring the region discovering new food and reviving old ones too. ‘I grew up eating lots of Burmese food. Kapi, fish sauce – all Burmese,’ she said over a glass of wine when we visited to hear the story. ‘This influences a lot of the menu, but we don’t want to frame today’s Burmese community as the only group of migrants in Chiang Mai. Rather, we believe that all of us are migrants who have come to live in this place in different ways and at different times.’ Flicking through the menu, this is made more apparent. Some pages more recognisable than others, the options dart between Thai, Burmese, Chinese and Muslim dishes – all deeply connected to the roots of each partner.  Kanwara ‘Ben’ Huangsuwannakorn, another founder and creative director of &Then adds, ‘I grew up in a Chinese family, with many children, aunties and uncles under
Your ultimate guide to Chiang Mai Street Jazz Festival 2025

Your ultimate guide to Chiang Mai Street Jazz Festival 2025

Jazz fans (and music fans for that matter), prepare yourselves as Chiang Mai enters full swing. And by swing, we mean jazz, folk and all kinds of funky music played across the city as, for one full week, the mountainside city transforms into a living, breathing jazz stage as the Chiang Mai Street Jazz Festival returns for its 7th edition.  This citywide celebration of brass, soul, improvisation and good music reaches far and wide. From street corners inside the old city moat to intimate club sessions and a grand finale on the Chiang Mai Cultural Center’s main stage, this festival is where Chiang Mai shows exactly why it’s one of Southeast Asia’s fastest growing music hotspots. Whether you’re a diehard jazz listener, a casual genre-hopper or simply someone who loves an excuse to visit Chiang Mai, this is one of the most exciting citywide festivals of the year. And to make it extra easy to navigate the busy schedule, here’s everything you need to know before you go.     Photograph: Chiang Mai Street Jazz Festival   What exactly is the Chiang Mai Street Jazz Festival? Think jazz everywhere – performed in temples, cafes, parks, cultural spaces, clubs, bars, co-ops and on actual street corners. It’s a week where musicians spill out into the city, where locals and visitors wander between pop-up sets, and where you’re just as likely to stumble upon a late-afternoon sax solo as you are a midnight jam session. The festival’s theme for 2025 – ‘Chiang Mai Jazz City: Let the City Play
This weekend, Chiang Rai Jazz Festival hits a high note

This weekend, Chiang Rai Jazz Festival hits a high note

Chiang Rai turns up the volume this cool season as the Chiang Rai Jazz Festival 2025 makes its encore, sending trumpets, basslines and brassy bursts out across the north. Under the theme ‘Analog Pulse,’ the Chiang Rai Contemporary Art Museum (CCAM) shifts from quiet gallery to full-bodied music playground, celebrating all things analogue. From vinyl to live instruments, acoustic sets and physical art, this year’s ‘jazz’ feels more eclectic than ever before. Sure, it may be a ‘jazz festival’, but this year’s lineup is anything but narrow. Headlining this year is the internationally-acclaimed Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band (we can’t get enough of them, honestly), supported by Chiang Mai’s own Rasmee Isan Soul – another one of our faves.  They’re joined by Natt Buntita x PYC, PETITE, Jūji, Nice Guys, Groovy Doopy, Khela, Overload and a wave of other rising northern talent pushing the festival into bolder, more eclectic territory. Throw in some vinyl DJs spinning warm grooves and you’re all-set this weekend. Plus, for the more proactive of us out there, hands-on art workshops, kinetic gallery installations and food stalls all add up to be the most ‘more-than-jazz’ jazz festival the region’s seen to date. And, if you’re flying in specially, why not pair the weekend with a high-energy ‘90s-themed brunch at Le Méridien Chiang Rai – their Italian restaurant, Favola, is to die for.  With its mix of international acts and homegrown talent, Chiang Rai Jazz Festival is quietly
Chiang Mai takes 14th place in global happiness ranking

Chiang Mai takes 14th place in global happiness ranking

A new global poll by Time Out has named Chiang Mai the 14th happiest city in the world, ranking it ahead of dozens of major world cities, underscoring its appeal as one of the best places to live. The survey, which polled more than 18,000 city-dwellers, asked urbanites across the world how their city makes them feel – including whether they find joy in everyday life, perceive neighbours as happy and feel their sense of happiness has grown recently. From that, we compiled a definitive list of the top 20 happiest cities, with Chiang Mai emerging as Thailand’s sole entry and the highest-ranking city in Southeast Asia. The happiness index was based on the percentage of positive responses to five key statements: ‘My city makes me happy’; ‘I feel happier here than in other places I’ve lived or visited’; ‘People in my city seem happy’; ‘I find joy in the everyday experiences my city offers’; and ‘The sense of happiness in my city has grown a lot recently’. This latest ranking follows Time Out’s 50 Best Cities in the World 2025 list, published earlier this year, where Chiang Mai placed 28 thanks to its growing reputation for excellent cuisine and third-most affordable place to eat out at a restaurant in all 50 cities.
Chiang Mai takes 2 spots on Thailand’s 20 Best Bars list

Chiang Mai takes 2 spots on Thailand’s 20 Best Bars list

Two of the city’s most innovative cocktail bars  – Bar.San and Bar Not Found – earned national acclaim at the weekend, landing at numbers 10 and 12 respectively on Thailand’s 20 Best Bars 2025 list, revealed at this year’s Bangkok Bar Show Awards. While Bangkok’s heavyweights took the top spots (see the full list here on Time Out Bangkok), Chiang Mai proved it can hold its tipple, with both bars recognised for creativity, craftsmanship and boundary-pushing alcoholic beverages. Bar.San, the sophisticated sister to Noir CMI and its neighbouring jazz-inspired venues, not only placed 10 overall but also took home the title of Best Bar in Chiang Mai. Meanwhile, Bar Not Found – the city’s ultra-modern, Pantone-themed cocktail bar – came in at 12 with nods to its colourful cocktails and brightly lit conceptual flair. The Bangkok Bar Show was co-founded in 2019 by Thailand’s cocktail pioneer Niks Anuman and Singapore’s Colin Chia, who built events that not only spotlight the country’s best bars but also celebrates Southeast Asia’s rising fine-drinking culture and spirited creativity.  And while there’s many more we think could have made the list (check out our best hidden cocktail bar list here), when you’re next in town, head to Bar San for some moody elegance and masterfully balanced classics, or pull up a stool at the well-hidden Bar Not Found – but only if you can find the right doorway first.
Yi Peng lanterns grounded over public safety concerns

Yi Peng lanterns grounded over public safety concerns

As the Yi Peng festival looms closer, lantern sales are up – but beware, there are strict rules this year on where you can release them. From November 5-6, Chiang Mai officially celebrates Yi Peng – the northern counterpart to Loy Krathong is usually celebrated by releasing paper lanterns into the sky, often adorned with names, wishes and prayers to the gods. This year, authorities have drawn up six ‘surveillance zones’ where launching anything that flies, sparks or explodes is strictly off limits. Red Zones, where lantern release is strictly prohibited, includes Hang Dong, Saraphi, San Sai, Mae Rim, San Patong, Muang Chiang Mai and the ‘Toffy Zone’ – a designated flight safe area that stretches 15km north and south from the airport.  If you still want that picture-perfect lantern release for your social media stories, you’ll need to head to one of the few officially approved events, CAD Yi Peng Sky Lantern Festival, where thousands of lanterns are set free in one go under strict safety rules. Take this as your warning: if you ignore the ban, you face up to five years in prison and a fine of up to B200,000. This almost doubles if your lantern starts a fire.  If, after all this, you’re still planning your own mini-release, then keep it green by using only biodegradable materials that vanish within a year – yes, this is also a strictly enforced rule from this year.  So if you’re planning to release a lantern this year, swap out the old frames for biodegradable ones and send off
Samoeng’s Rainbow Cave makeover revealed

Samoeng’s Rainbow Cave makeover revealed

Known to some, new to many, Chiang Mai’s newest (or maybe oldest) natural wonder has had a makeover fit for explorers. Mae Sap Cave – better known as Tham Sai Rung, or Rainbow Cave – has officially reopened after a transformation from dark and dingy hollow to dazzling geological wonder. Once submerged in water, the dramatic stalactites and stalagmites have frozen mid-drip, a dramatic time capsule millions of years in the making. What is new, however, is the visitor-friendly spruce-up: safe pathways, lighting and a proper chance to admire its natural spectacle without a miner’s helmet.  Inside, you’ll find four chambers – Rainbow, Chapel, Emerald and Diamond – each with its own otherworldly formations. Think towing columns, heart-shaped stones and imaginative shadow casting outcrops that form shapes of animals and ghosts.  The star of the show, though, must be the rainbow of colours that ripple across the walls and ceilings, where layers of white, grey, ochre and brown-yellow limestone bands tell their own story of time. Stretching 144 metres in length, the cave can be found inside Samoeng’s Khun Khan National Park, some 90 minutes west of Chiang Mai city centre. While far from the city, entrance is just B100, making it the perfect excuse to swap strawberry picking for subterranean sightseeing instead.
Only you (and 149 others): The Platters live in Chiang Mai

Only you (and 149 others): The Platters live in Chiang Mai

If you thought that Warm Up was only about rock riffs and EDM drops, think again. This month, the city’s favourite nightclub is flipping the script by hosting the legendary ‘50s doo-wop band The Platters for the first time in Chiang Mai history.  The Platters Experience – Sleepy Lagoon brings the timeless sound of the oldies to the city later this month with a live concert at Warmup Cafe across two matinee shows on Sep 20-21.  Tickets cost B2,500 and promise an exclusive experience with the inclusion of premium Martell cognac, fine wines, tasty snacks and a jazzy warm-up ensemble before the main act. Better yet, part of the proceeds go directly to Mae On Hospital to help renovate their outpatient wing. It’s giving good vibes with good intentions. Photograph: The Platters With seating capped at just 150 per show, exclusivity is the name of the game. For two nights only, this is likely the first (and possibly last) time Chiang Mai gets to hear these iconic harmonies live. Don’t sleep on this one. With an evolving line up of band members, their hits remain eternal. Expect spine-tingling renditions of classics like ‘Only You’, ‘The Great Pretender’, and ‘Smoke Gets in Your Eyes’.  Secure your spot by calling 02-113-1234 or messaging the dedicated ticket booking LINE account @theplatterscnx. 
Warning issued as tropical storm Kajiki takes on Chiang Mai

Warning issued as tropical storm Kajiki takes on Chiang Mai

Visitors and locals of Chiang Mai have been advised to avoid the city centre and stay at home as floodwater caused by tropical storm Kajiki leaves many parts of the city submerged.  Heavy rains showered down on Chiang Mai today leaving roads and canals unable to drain fast enough, resulting in citywide flooding.  Authorities have warned of continued heavy rains over the coming days and advise people to avoid the city centre wherever possible. As of today, many cars, properties and public spaces have been submerged by up to one metre in flood water.  Photograph: Traffic Radio Chiang Mai This year, Chiang Mai has been inundated with floods on many occasions, with December last year seeing the largest flood the city has seen for centuries.  Since then, drainage and flood defences have struggled to cope, leaving the city open to more chances of flooding – something many believe to be here for the long-run. Hopefully the rain clears and the flooding subsides fast, just in time for a weekend of city-based fun and parties.
Yellow Fang sink their teeth into Chiang Mai this September

Yellow Fang sink their teeth into Chiang Mai this September

After months of pursuing side projects, Yellow Fang are back – and their comeback tour is tearing through Thailand with the same bite and brilliance that made them a national favourite. Formed in Bangkok back in their uni days, this all-female alt-rock group quickly rose in the charts thanks to their alternative, gender-bending mix of rock, dream pop, lo-fi, shoegaze and atmospheric guitar textures that defined a generation of indie artists in their wake last decade. Their discography – including standout album The Greatest – has made international strides in recent years as the genre resurfaced into pop culture once again, with tours of Tokyo, Malaysia and even further afield over the last half a decade.  Photograph: Yellow Fang When is Yellow Fang playing in Chiang Mai? Yellow Fang is scheduled to take the stage in Chiang Mai on September 20, with a live performance at Muan More Space, Central Chiangmai Airport. Fans can look forward to hearing all their favourite tunes from ‘Unreal’ to ‘I Don’t Know’ as well as a supporting act from Chiang Mai dreampop band srwks. in partnership with Oversee.  Where to get tickets to see Yellow Fang in Chiang Mai? Tickets for Yellow Fang went live today (Aug 13) and are already selling out fast. They’re available for purchase through Ticket Melon. Grab yours here. Ticket prices As soon as the ticket sales opened, earlybird and Phase Two tickets have now already sold out.  Phase Three tickets are live and on sale for B450 per person, with