Andrew Fowler

Over 2,400 kilometres. That’s the length of the border between Thailand and Myanmar, one of the longest in the world. It’s a border that has seen war, migration and trade – in other words, all the things that facilitate the transmission of cuisine. Here’s another number – two million. That’s how many Myanmar nationals are estimated to be living in Thailand by the United Nations. So then one has to ask, why are there so few Burmese restaurants in Bangkok? While Burmese food stalls could often be found in fresh markets frequented by Burmese workers – Talat Phra Khanong in particular – this was very much food for the community. You know about it or you don’t. Migrant workers have rather more immediate priorities than cultural exchange. But change is in the air. As Myanmar’s political situation continues to deteriorate – a complex issue beyond the scope of this discussion – an increasing number of Burmese individuals with disposable incomes are relocating to or investing in Bangkok. Today, Burmese buyers rank second only to the Chinese in foreign condo purchases in the city. And with that increased Burmese capital, restaurants have been both a popular investment and a place to reconnect with the flavours of the homeland. After all, in a city as gastronomic as Bangkok, the secret can’t be kept long. Food nerds have long sang the praises of the excellent, working-class fare at Phetchaburi Road’s Mandalay Food House, as well as the modern interpretations served alongside craft cockt