The Burman Kitchen
You can count the number of Burmese restaurants opened over the last few years on one hand, but the Burman Kitchen, a narrow store opposite the train line in Granville, is setting the bar for the rest to follow and leading the way in opening up an unfamiliar food to a new audience. You’ll recognise a bit of Thai in the citrus, chilli and herbs, some Chinese in the stir fried noodles and Indian influences in biryanis and curries – it shares borders with all your takeaway favourites.If there’s a dish that unites the Burmese, it’s mohingha. This revered rice noodle soup is dense with cooked, shredded white fish and a little flour to thicken the seafood broth. This soup is eaten any time of the day or night, top yours with additions that ramp up the chilli heat or add citrus sourness depending on your taste. It’s a weekend-only special, and one of the most popular dishes on the menu.Bolder flavours, mostly from fermented fish sauce, are found in ngapi yea, a pungent dip that is eaten with a platter of fresh and cooked vegetables and mint and coriander to counter the strong, salty, taste. On the flipside, some of the curries run mild: try the spicy lamb and split pea curry touched with cumin and coriander to give it a warmth, not heat. Pair it with a bowl of buttered steamed rice, and the overall effect is similar to Persian-style braised lamb and rice dishes, while the chicken or goat biryani special is a nod to the influence of the subcontinent.The influences of Chiang Mai and