Mardi Gras parade in New Orleans
Photograph: GTS Productions / Shutterstock.com
Photograph: GTS Productions / Shutterstock.com

Mardi Gras in New Orleans: what to eat, drink and do

From king cakes and costumes to parades and parties, here's what to know about Mardi Gras in New Orleans.

Gerrish Lopez
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Though Carnival is celebrated differently around the world, few celebrations rival Mardi Gras, which draws over one million visitors annually to enjoy the party that New Orleanians hold so dear.

While the rest of the country pledges moderation starting on New Year’s Day, locals get to enjoy several more weeks of indulgence and revelry. Carnival season includes a variety of festivities and traditions—elegant balls, colorful parades, king cake, costumes—that rival any other holiday season. Houses are decked out in Mardi Gras purple, green and gold, and those same colors become the de rigeur fashion statement for any occasion.

Mardi Gras is a celebration that’s open to all—it’s even family-friendly. Here’s what you need to know about Mardi Gras, including where to stay, what to eat and can’t-miss events.

What is Mardi Gras?

While Mardi Gras is no doubt one giant party, its roots trace back to New Orleans’ French Catholic heritage. Blending Pagan and Christian customs, Mardi Gras symbolizes indulgence before the austerity of Lent begins on Ash Wednesday.

The term "Mardi Gras" is commonly used to refer to the entire Carnival season, but Mardi Gras (a.k.a. "Fat Tuesday") is actually just a one day, pre-Lent party.

When is Mardi Gras?

Carnival season kicks off on January 6—also known as King’s Day, Epiphany and Twelfth Night—and runs through Mardi Gras, which is the day before the start of Lent on Ash Wednesday. Mardi Gras falls on a different Tuesday each year based on Easter’s date, which determines the date of Ash Wednesday. This year, Mardi Gras is Tuesday, March 4.

Mardi Gras parades

Mardi Gras parades are the highlight of the season. Staged by "krewes"—Carnival organizations—these parades range from small, costumed walking groups to a rolling party of colorful, over-the-top floats interspersed with marching bands and dance troupes. Walkers and riders throw beads, doubloons, cups, specialty throws and more (keep an eye out for sustainable/reusable throws that are slowly replacing plastic beads).

Smaller parade highlights include: the Phunny Phorty Phellows, a tiny krewe that rides a streetcar down St. Charles Avenue on January 6 to mark the start of the season; the highly irreverent Krewe du Vieux, a French Quarter walking parade known for its satirical floats; and the Krewe of Barkus, which features costumed dogs and their people. Other unique krewes, like Chewbacchus and Krewe of Red Beans, parade their artistic flair through the Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods in high style.

The celebrations rev up in the two weeks or so, leading to Mardi Gras as the bigger parades roll through the streets almost every night of the week. These grand processions feature elaborate, hand-built floats pulled by tractors. Most parades roll through Uptown along Napoleon and St. Charles Avenues before turning onto Canal Street. Notable exceptions include Endymion, which begins in Mid-City, and suburban parades in Metairie and the West Bank.

To get the full experience on Mardi Gras Day, you can get up in the early morning hours to catch the Mardi Gras Indians, the Jefferson City Buzzards Marching Krewe or Pete Fountain’s Half-Fast Walking Krewe. Next, the legendary Rex—King of Carnival—and Zulu krewes take center stage. Smaller walking krewes like the Society of Saint Anne in the French Quarter are always guaranteed to feature amazing costumes.

When does Mardi Gras end?

As midnight strikes, the NOPD sweeps Bourbon Street, symbolically marking the end of Mardi Gras. If you pace yourself, you can make it to the final minutes of this joyous marathon of culture and camaraderie. Then, finally, you can get back to those New Year’s resolutions.

Where to stay during Mardi Gras

  • Hotels
  • Central City
  • Recommended

This charming hotel is on St. Charles Ave in the Garden District. Famously, this hotel is where Tennessee Williams wrote A Streetcar Named Desire. The rooms do, in fact, have views of streetcars that run up and down the street. Even better, Pontchartrain Hotel is right on the parade route, so you don't have to wander far to get in on the action. You can also grab a drink at Hot Tin on the roof, dine at Jack Rose or hop on the streetcar (except when a parade is rolling) for easy access to the French Quarter.

Virgin Hotel New Orleans

Vibrant and edgy, Virgin Hotel New Orleans sits in the heart of the Warehouse District. It's close to both the Carnival action in the Quarter and the parade route through the CBD, yet far enough away to feel like an escape. Both the Commons Club, a lively restaurant and bar and rooftop pool bar (which features stunning skyline views) will be hosting a variety of Mardi Gras events throughout the season, including a brunch and market for all your Mardi Gras essentials.

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  • Hotels
  • French Quarter

A St. Charles Avenue icon, Columns Hotel combines Southern charm with modern sophistication. Set in a beautifully restored 19th-century mansion, it boasts original architectural details like ornate columns and stained-glass windows. Its unique guest rooms blend vintage elegance with contemporary comforts. Best of all, it's right on the parade route. Start with cocktails in the lounge or garden patio, then head out when you hear the marching bands coming.

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  • Hotels
  • French Quarter
  • price 3 of 4
  • Recommended

If you want to be right in the thick of the Bourbon Street nightlife scene, look no further than the Royal Sonesta. The hotel has a wrought-iron balcony that wraps around the corner of the seven-story building—a perfect spot for watching the revelry below. Don't miss the Sonesta's annual Greasing of the Poles competition on the Friday before Mardi Gras. When not partying, enjoy seafood at Desire Oyster Bar, an indulgent meal at Restaurant R'evolution or a show at the Jazz Playhouse.

  • Hotels
  • Boutique hotels
  • Faubourg Marigny
  • price 2 of 4
  • Recommended

Hotel Peter & Paul is a sophisticated hotel in a fascinating, historic space. In the 19th century, the building used to house a schoolhouse, rectory, church and convent. Located in the Marigny, the hotel is not far from the French Quarter but offers a peaceful retreat after all the fun. It's also a great location for catching some of the smaller walking krewes that parade through the neighborhood in the weeks before Mardi Gras. Check the calendar for Carnival season art markets—where you can find costumes and accessories for Mardi Gras—held in the great hall.

Where to eat and drink during Mardi Gras

King cake

One thing you can't afford to miss during Mardi Gras and Carnival season is king cake. This traditional ring-shaped cake is made by bakeries all over the city. Some are made with simple brioche dough or cinnamon-swirl dough, while others are stuffed with sweet fillings, from chocolate to praline cream (not to mention newfangled savory versions) and just about all are topped with purple, green and gold sugar. The cakes include one plastic baby (or another festive figurine)—if you get the piece with the baby, you’re obliged to buy the next king cake. Everyone has their favorite, but just a few include a classic from Haydel's, a simple but on-point version from Nolita or an indulgent one with a Vietnamese coffee-flavored filling from Dough Nguyener's. Can't decide? Stop by the King Cake Hub to find selections from bakeries all over the city, all in one spot.

Gris-Gris to Go-Go

Gris-Gris’ takeout sidekick has all your parade needs, from King Cake Daiquiris to packaged red beans and rice, chicken and dumplings, sandwiches and even turkey necks from sister restaurant Saint John. Pick up whatever you need for the parade route, or just dine at Gris-Gris before or after the parades.

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The Bower

You’ll need to eat before the parades, but not so much that you’re full. The Bower Bar does it just right with a selection of small plates to nosh on while you get in the spirit with specialty drinks like the Carnival Negroni (with housemade glittered Campari), the St. Charles Sour (with house-infused peach bourbon) and the Mobile Mardi Gras with spiced rum and chocolate vegan soft serve.

Birdy's

Birdy’s is a go-to spot for breakfast in the Lower Garden District and an ideal place to fuel up away from the crowds before heading out. Try a special king cake cinnamon roll, and—why not—indulge in a Mardi Gras Martini to start the day (or afternoon) off right.

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Tujague's

Tujague's is a great spot for pre-parade dining if you’re catching one towards the end of its route, but with a prime spot on Decatur, it’s a great place to be when Krewe du Vieux rolls through. The restaurant will host a special KDV Parade Viewing Party, where you can enjoy an open bar and indulgent buffet with access to the restaurant’s private balcony overlooking the street as the always-colorful parade passes by.

Martin's

Stop by Martin’s for all your parade needs. This Uptown wine shop, liquor store and deli has plenty of parade-worthy snacks, from finger sandwiches and wraps to cheese, crackers and snacks. And, of course, you can pick up wine, beer or cocktail supplies to enjoy on the parade route.

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Saint John

Saint John’s location on Saint Charles Ave. is a prime parade route spot, so the restaurant is offering Mardi Gras Grandstand Passes for a sweet parade viewing experience. Passes include access to Saint John’s upstairs private rooms, an open buffet featuring daily selections by Chef de Cuisine Darren Chabert, a private bar, balcony and restrooms, plus grandstand access in front of the restaurant.

Verti Marte

This cash-only, 24-hour corner store and deli is the best spot for late-night (and early morning) eats in the Quarter—especially during Mardi Gras. The po’boys are hefty and flavorful, perfect for satisfying hunger after a night out or fueling up as you go. The hot sausage po’boy and the roast beef—both made with a secret sauce—are favorites. Then there’s the All That Jazz, a stunner stuffed with grilled turkey, ham, American and Swiss cheeses, fried shrimp and sautéed mushrooms. Perfect parade fare.

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Clover Grill

Another 24-hour joint in the Quarter, Clover Grill hits the spot with handmade burgers and fries, omelettes, chicken fried steak, sandwiches and other standard diner fare—cooked up with just the right amount of attitude needed for a parade pick-me-up. Situated at the tail end of Bourbon Street, it's the place to go to make sure your belly's full before heading to bed (whatever time that may be).

  • Bayou St. John
  • Recommended

This family-owned, casual neighborhood joint is a top choice for classic, overstuffed po-boys. Shrimp are fried to perfection, roast beef is sufficiently messy and the Barq's (and beer) is served icy cold. The oyster po-boy is a favorite, but it is only available Mondays and Wednesdays. While not located near (yet not far from) any of the parade routes, this Mid-City spot is a festive place to grab a bite before heading out.

Mardi Gras events

Carnival balls

Aside from their parade, each Carnival krewe’s annual ball is a highlight of the season. Many of the major krewes (and some Carnival organizations that don’t parade) host regal, black-tie events that are exclusive to members, but some are open to the public. Krewe du Vieux and Chewbacchus host irreverent bashes that require a costume and feature top local bands. Grab a ticket to the black-tie Orpheuscapade or the Endymion Extravaganza, and you’ll catch national-level acts performing before watching the parades as they finish up in the Convention Center and Superdome, respectively.

Costume shopping

Mardi Gras day is the time to don your best costume. You’ll see everything, from popular characters to elaborate, bedazzled get-ups to costumes that comment on the politics of the day as you walk the streets on Fat Tuesday. There’s no rule against dressing up on other days; however, you’ll often see parade-goers decked out in wigs, glitter and colorful attire. Shops like Miss Claudia’s Vintage, Uptown Costume and Funky Monkey are go-to spots for Mardi Gras costumes. If you’re not feeling creative, just throw on some purple, green and gold—the traditional colors of Mardi Gras.

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Shorty Gras

This annual Carnival ball/music festival at Mardi Gras World follows the Krewe of Freret parade. The festivities include performances by Ja Rule, Soul Rebels, New Breed Brass Band, special guest Big Boi and Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue.

Lundi Gras

The Monday before Mardi Gras brings its own festivities. Catch the Red Beans Parade (members craft their costumes from the city’s iconic legume) during the day, then Proteus (the city’s second oldest krewe) and Orpheus (the krewe founded by Harry Connick, Jr.) that night. The Lundi Gras Festival, hosted by the Krewe of Zulu at Woldenberg Park, features music and food to enjoy before King Zulu and his entourage arrive by boat on the Mississippi. Later, Rex (the King of Carnival) arrives and the mayor symbolically hands over control of the city to let the Mardi Gras revelry begin.

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Greasing of the Poles

This annual event at the Royal Sonesta kicks off the final weekend of Mardi Gras. Greasing the poles in front of the hotel was done to prevent overzealous Carnival revelers from climbing up to the balcony, but the tradition continues today as a boisterous competition. Each year, local celebs participate as contestants and judges see who can grease the poles with the most flare.

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