Pontchartrain Hotel is a charming hotel right on St. Charles Ave in the Garden District. Famously, this hotel is where Tennessee Williams wrote A Streetcar Named Desire, and the rooms do, in fact, overlook streetcars that run up and down the street. These days, the hotel has leaned into a 1950s boho charm aesthetic in a big way, and it’s working!
Upon entering the hotel, you are met with a lavish lobby framed by large red velvet curtains, bright red walls and dark wood counters. The hotel still uses metal keys to enter and leave rooms; you’re told at check-in that if you lose your key, it will cost $250, but you’re welcome to leave it at the front desk as you come and go. The romantic lushness of the hotel, along with these quirkier attributes, make for an eclectic experience very much in line with the city it resides in.
The rooms match the lobby’s rich decorative style with a bit less boldness. With green and pink velvet bedding, and floral drapery, in many ways, it does feel as though you’ve walked back in time to 1950s New Orleans. There’s a sketch of Tennessee Williams and a small chandelier hanging in every room. Though charming, the boho-retro vibe of the spot could be read as outdated by some. However, where it matters most—the bathrooms, TV and beds—everything is pristine. The robes are fluffy, and the soap is La Labo. If you’re looking for a quirky, chic, yet affordable stay, this hotel is perfect for you.
The hotel’s rooftop bar, Hot Tin, is a trendy, sophisticated bar offering cocktails and small bites. Downstairs, the legendary Caribbean Room has been reimagined as Jack Rose. Here, I had some of the best gumbo I’ve ever had. If stopping by for a bite, make sure to try the mile-high pie; it's three layers of ice cream, covered in meringue and torched, served with a table-side drizzle of chocolate sauce. This decadent dessert was invented in the Palm Court, and it's so beloved it’s painted on the restaurant's ceiling. (They also sell neckties with a mile-high pie pattern.)
At night, the Bayou Bar hosts jazz shows and serves strong drinks. While watching a show in the wooden den-like space, I was surrounded by locals, which gave the experience a far more authentic feel.
There’s enough to do in the hotel on its own, but when you choose to venture out, it’s a 10-minute walk to a great stretch of Magazine Street, filled with vintage shops, cafes and restaurants. You’ll also be a stone's throw away from the streetcar, which can get you to the French Quarter in 20 minutes.
The Neighborhood:
The Garden District is a beautiful neighborhood consisting of ornate Creole-French mansions. You could spend an entire day walking around and looking at homes. There’s a great strip of Magazine Street, as well as quirky and interesting museums, like the Museum of Southern Food and The Museum of The American Alligator. It’s a fantastic place to wander. Oh, and it also happens to be the neighborhood Jennifer Coolidge calls home.
Nearby:
Trashy Diva: For quintessential New Orleans vintage shopping.
Lucky’s Bar: For a dive bar hangout, featuring billiards and karaoke.
Ashé Cultural Arts Center: For community-led gallery spaces and live events centered on the philosophies of the African Diaspora.