The best pasta in Melbourne

Città sees Ronnie Di Stasio return to the neighbourhood where he pioneered Rosati in the heady days shortly before the fringe benefits tax and the stock market crash cruelled the excesses of the 1980s. The linguini Capri (ebulliently listed with “pawns, parsley, lemon and sunshine”) is enjoying poll position on Instagram, but capellini – angel hair by another name – with loads of garlic and briny-sweet chunks of crab meat in its white wine-driven sauce, is nipping at its heels.

It’s been some years since gents were expected to keep their jackets on at all times, but it’s good to see Grossi Florentino is a restaurant that continues to sweat the small stuff. The grand Mural Room is one of Melbourne’s last bastions of lavish European dining charm where the lighting is set to dim, and the mood set upon arrival by the proffering of a handbag stool. There will be pasta. Maltagliati – ragged flags of pasta made with breadcrumbs – are luscious with bug meat, and a rich, buttery sauce owing a subtle debt to colatura, the richly savoury fermented fish sauce invented by the Ancient Romans. It’s safe to say you won’t find this kind of thing at Spaghetti Tree across the road. 

Like many of us during the COVID lockdowns, Italian-born chef Andre Vignalli tried to make lemon juice from a suddenly sour situation. He launched his own pasta delivery service, Al Dente, which quickly spread in popularity around Melbourne and has since evolved into the upscale modern restaurant it is today – Al Dente Enoteca. The crowd favourite since Al Dente’s inception is the tortellini cacio e pepe. 

Melbourne’s a town that does pasta either really well or terribly badly. Tipo 00 is definitely a stand-out member of the first category. The pappardelle, thick ribbons boasting the right resistance to the teeth, is jumbled up with rabbit braised in white wine, with the toasty crunch of hazelnuts and green specks of marjoram. This is happiness in a bowl. Carb-dodgers be damned. 

In a town where Italian food reigns supreme with endless pizza and pasta restauarants, whole streets dedicated almost exclusively to the cuisine, old-school eateries that have been serving regulars for decades and new modern spots showcasing refined culinary options, it's hard for a pizzeria to stand out. Lucky for 400 Gradi, winning the title of the best pizza in the world went a far way to making it one of Melbourne's most beloved Italian joints. But while it may be famous for its pizza, certainly don't overlook the pasta. Here, it's just as impressive an affair with sleek, lustrous linguini, red-hot casarecce n'duja and gnocchi all firm favourites of 400 Gradi's loyal flock of devotees.

Everything at this sleek laneway bar is made in-house, including the pasta, the bread, vinegars and more. The menu’s also interesting, not your standard showcase of traditional Italian ingredients. Mossy green ribbons of pappardelle come topped with shavings of abalone, and you’ll spot diverse ingredients like kumquat, romesco, dashi jelly and edamame also making unexpected appearances in several dishes. 

If you like your fresh pappardelle with a side of sophisticated interior design and a romantic atmosphere, Tipico is a trattoria worth your attention. The Windsor chunk of High Street continues to become a hotspot for elevated-casual dining, without the hectic nightlife atmosphere of its Prahran and South Yarra neighbours. This modern-italian restaurant from the pasta-pizza geniuses behind DOC, Trattoria Emilia and Grossi Florentino embraces art and design in a relaxed environment – perfect for a drop-in aperitivo or a leisurely, long dining experience.

Could this be Carlton's best-kept secret? Tucked away off the main strip on Elgin Street, this understated Italian restaurant bar dishes up pillow-soft handmade gnocchi, authentic Neapolitan pizza and silky strands of pasta made with traditional fresh ingredients. The gnocchi, made from Royal Blue and Desiree potatoes, is gluten-free, and the homemade tiramisu for dessert is an unmissable treat. And who's Gemma? The beloved nonna who passed down all the recipes, of course. 

This lively Sicilian joint, where the music pumps and the snacks come out thick and fast, has fast become a Lygon Street favourite. You’ll want to book nice and early – there’s not a day Bar Idda isn’t packed. You’ll find this cosy neighbourhood trattoria on the old Rumi site (Rumi have moved to, uh, roomier digs). Your pasta picks include a twirly maccaruni cloaked in slow-cooked beef and pork ragu with a sharp nip of pecorino and spaghetti with sardines, anchovies, fennel, saffron, pine nuts, currants and caramelised onion. Drool. 

Scopri offers a seasonal rotating menu comprised of produce from their own biodynamic farm in the Macedon Ranges. Italian favourites such as antipasti, grilled octopus with nduja, and rabbit agnolotti punctuate the menu. Scopri boasts an impressive cellar, but don't turn their noses up to BYO, even tailoring menus to match wines for the serious oenophile. BYO corkage is $10 per bottle. Scopri is definitely a restaurant you have to book ahead for as walk-ins are perpetually met with disappointment. Yep, it's a favourite for a reason.