The best new restaurants of 2023

Opened in: July

For those who can regularly afford it, there’s an L.A. omakase for every whim, reason or predilection—making it all the more remarkable that this Gardena experience ($200) manages to stand out among its much older peers, let alone among the city’s new restaurant openings. Run by Katsu Sando’s Daniel Son, Sushi Sonagi dazzles with Korean influences, California seasonality and thoughtful, warm service that justifies setting a reminder for the sought-after Tock reservation and paying the steep cost of entry. Bites like rainbow trout garnished with delicate, nutty-tasting sesame seeds and miso butter-topped tamago will leave you on cloud nine. The Korean American chef sources most of his fish from the same supplier used by the veterans at Morihiro and Shunji, yet Son fuses traditional technique with hints of bold Korean flavors and farmers’ market produce in a way that feels fresh and memorable. (This is coming from someone who’s tried 30 different L.A. omakases.) Despite having opened just this past summer, I would already rank Son’s menu among my top five omakases in L.A. If that’s the case, just imagine the heights Sushi Sonagi could reach in a year or two.

Opened in: May

At this point, I’m hankering for something completely novel from pasta maestro Evan Funke, but his eponymous crown jewel in Beverly Hills still fires on all cylinders with excellent cuisine, five-star service and Shannon Swindle’s show-stopping pastry program, including the phenomenal seasonal fruit meringata. There’s a glass-encased pasta workshop, a new section of hand-rolled pastas (“fatta a mano”) and an upstairs rooftop bar, all of which have distinguished Funke from its older siblings Mother Wolf and Felix and landed it a spot on our best restaurants list. After revisiting all three this year, I’ve found Funke to offer the best mix of consistency, menu selection and overall wow factor, though the interiors do little more than mimic the usual glitzy, slightly boring aesthetic of other 90210 industry joints. New dishes like the sfincione palermitano (focaccia topped with anchovy and pomodoro) offer just as much delight for longtime fans familiar with the signature cacio e pepe and Mother Wolf’s famous mortadella-stuffed pizza crust. Plus, the staff generally makes you feel like your money is well-spent—something I can’t say of most new restaurants.

Opened in: March

After a red-hot early spring opening, this industrial-chic Frogtown eatery has become an upscale neighborhood seafood joint for Northeast L.A. locals, and an elevated mariscos destination for everyone else. Not every dish hits its mark—I found a newer soft-shell crab orzo pasta slightly off-putting in texture, and some dishes lean too heavily on soy or aioli—but Loreto’s Japanese-influenced ceviches and tostadas are unique enough to stand out in a city full of amazing mariscos trucks and countless other upscale seafood restaurants. Marvel in the decadence of the tostada a la Joaquin (made with fatty tuna, avocado and a creamy sauce) or opt for Loreto’s stripped-down, ultra-fiery aguachile negro. In truth, there’s more than one way to cut a fine meal here: The large-format zarandeados, the array of nuanced botanas (bar snacks) and the various raw seafood configurations all ensure you’ll find your own path to postprandial bliss.

Opened in: January 

Within weeks of opening, the Pasadena Playhouse’s eclectic, globally inspired new bistro earned approval and recognition from Bon Appetit and the L.A. Times for Douglas Rankin’s French-leaning small plates and Raymond Morales’s clever pastry program. On my first visit, I would have told you the very same, thanks to several menu standouts, including the rainbow trout, which comes with swirls of verdant garlic-chive oil and a side of “corn rice”; the carrot salad, showered in a fragrant coconut-lime dressing reminiscent of Thai-style limeade; and a delectable lemon-chamomile semifreddo topped with a beautiful floral fritter, marigold petals and calamansi gastrique. Return visits to Bar Chelou, however, uncovered some uneven dishes, though they aren’t significant enough to detract from Rankin’s overall culinary vision. Brimming with creativity, it's a welcome deviation from the play-it-safe menus other upscale places have embraced in recent years. The restaurant holds its own when compared to the most interesting restaurants in Silver Lake, Frogtown and other “hip” neighborhoods, so ignore the sleepy Pasadena address; Bar Chelou is a dining experience worth going out of the way for.

Opened in: May

A graduate of L.A.’s buzzy pop-up scene, this Mexican-Italian restaurant in Highland Park comes from veteran chef Danielle Duran Zecca and her husband Alessandro, who runs front-of-house. Must-order dishes like elote agnolotti and “noprese” (nopal plus caprese) salad reveal a surprising synergy between both cuisines, though you’ll be equally delighted by the rest of the menu. While prices run fairly upscale relative to the pint-sized dining room and outdoor patio’s scrappy neighborhood feel, the synergy of flavors that run through the menu feel well thought out enough to justify paying over $100 per head once drinks and desserts get involved. Where else in the city can you find a pork chop milanese that uses crushed tortillas? Nowhere but here, at least for now, and even if you could, the execution would likely be lacking without Danielle Duran Zecca, who draws on her years of fine dining training. In the chef’s expert hands, fried pasta dough becomes a deserving substitute of masa and chile colorado pairs beautifully with cavatelli cooked perfectly al dente.

Opened in: May

This beloved Orange County taqueria has finally expanded to Huntington Park, putting amazing mesquite-grilled meats within a short driving distance for much of Los Angeles. Open until midnight most days of the week (and 1am on Fridays and Saturdays), Tacos Los Cholos serves some of the best street meats on tortillas I’ve ever had. Yes, I mean ever. Three price tiers—regular ($2.35), premium ($3.50), prime ($7.50)—offer a wealth of flavors, from the chewy, perfectly grilled panela cheese to the ultra-tender rib eye. My suggestion for first-timers? Go for mid-tier options like the costilla de res (pork ribs) and arrachera (skirt steak), which strike the balance between affordability and quality. Tacos Los Cholos’ self-serve topping station includes a creamy chipotle mayo, cucumbers and several varieties of salsa, ranging from mild to heart-stopping.

Opened in: December 2022

Seafood lovers, rejoice: This Boston import has brought amazing lobster rolls, full-bellied fried clams and other delicious New England-style dishes to the Sunset Strip, and there’s even free parking behind the restaurant to boot. A glittering ode to all things fruits de mer, Saltie Girl offers a soup-to-nuts seafood menu and a knockout pastry program courtesy of Ben Sidell (a.k.a. SweetBoy), the son of owner Kathy Sidell. The 100-plus kinds of tinned fish offer both (relative) affordability and variety, and even the fact that cyberbully Chrissy Teigen patronizes the place won’t stop me from coming back for the over-the-top fried lobster and waffles and A.O.C. alum Adam Cherney’s seasonal items. For those looking to splurge, caviar offerings impart just the right amount of elegance, but even less eye-wateringly expensive items like the excellent clam chowder impart plenty of delicious ocean flavor.

Opened in: February

After years of popping up around Highland Park (and a stint on Netflix’s Taco Chronicles), Victor Villa has brought his critically acclaimed blue corn tacos and mesquite-grilled meats to a strip mall spot along Figueroa, with a Grand Central Market location in the works for early next year. Made with family recipes, these “tacos estilo Los Angeles” are among the very best in the city, with seven different salsas to choose from and creamy guacamole, which never costs extra. Three solid vegan taco options further broaden the appeal of Villa’s cooking, but the first-timer’s go-to order is usually the sampler trio of quesotacos with charred, crispy Monterey Jack soldered to each handmade tortilla, drizzles of fresh snow white crema and a shower of cotija cheese. Lines here usually form early (though Villa will post to Instagram whenever they clear the line), but these tacos are worth the wait.

Opened in: March

It’s not every day that a restaurant serving farm-to-table kushiyaki comes along, but this little Main Street bistro from the couple behind Crudo e Nudo is forging a lively, more interesting path forward for California cuisine. Taking over from the Little Prince, chef Brian Bornemann retains the old restaurant’s wood-fired emphasis, but the vegetarian-friendly array of starters, mains and must-order skewers make the usual grab bag of global ingredients feel brand new again. While the menu changes regularly, we loved the duck hearts topped with pink peppercorns and the sherry vinegar-glazed chicken wings. Enjoy all this with natural wine and cocktails for one of the best new meals on the Westside—and if you don’t live in the area, this is a stylish little place to schlep for.

Opened in: September

What was once James Beach is now Si! Mon—the most exciting new restaurant to hit Venice in years, hands down. Led by Panama City-based chef José Carles, the stylishly appointed restaurant serves a delicious, though extremely pricey, introduction to Panamanian cuisine. Chinese, Spanish and Afro-Caribbean culinary influences pepper the seafood-heavy menu, as does yuca, the oft-fried root vegetable indigenous to Latin America and the Caribbean. Delicately flavored raw bites like the tuna yuca tostada balance out heartier dishes, including a delectable clam guacho—a seafood and rice stew with a consistency somewhere between congee and risotto—and a fried chicken entrée that uses rice powder for a craggy, flavorful crunch sans gluten. You won’t walk out of here full without spending under $300 for two, but it’s also one of the best meals I’ve had all year. Is it worth it? It depends, but being L.A.’s second-ever Panamanian restaurant (the first is Mid-Wilshire’s Caribbean Soul Kitchen), and the only one specialized in seafood, Si! Mon offers cuisine you can’t find anywhere else in L.A.