I don’t support Leyton Orient, but I love watching them play. There’s none of the pomp and nonsense of the Premier League; no lengthy VAR waits or even lengthier queues at the station for fans who live miles away. It’s just 9,000-odd locals who love being together for 90-minutes each Saturday. The place thrums with genuine affection, in that quintessentially British, pie-and-mash sort of way. In fact, the club’s half-time pie, mash and liquor is better than anything you’ll find at West Ham or Spurs down the road, and only costs £4.50. An adult ticket starts at £28. And, unlike the Premier League clubs, you can usually get one on the day.
Leyton and Leytonstone are nothing like Clapton, across the Hackney Marshes. They’re fresh out of objets d’art boutiques, mid-century vintage furniture stores, and parody Instagram accounts. But for what they lack in baby-chariot buggy-jams and towering townhouses, they make up for in friendly faces, cheap eats and authentic local businesses.
There’s also a historic football club that loves newcomers as well as a growing food scene (surely every foodie in London has failed to get a reservation at Singburi by now) lively nightlife and a wealth of proper boozers that still feel like living rooms, not boutique hotel lobbies.
Like most parts of London, the best way to see it is to walk it. You can get from Leytonstone Village to Francis Road – Leyton’s pedestrianised ‘drag’ – in under 20 minutes by foot. Or hop one stop on the tube.
Leyton takes its name from the River Lea (‘Lea Town’), the ancient waterway that once marked the eastern edge of Londinium. Back then, there was a great stone at a crossroads that marked one mile to the Roman city’s centre – ‘The Leyton Stone’. Since then, of course, a lot’s happened. Alfred Hitchcock was born here; Damon Albarn grew up here; and it’s where David Beckham kicked his first football.
To most Londoners, Leyton and Leytonstone are synonymous. But don’t say that to a local. I would describe Leytonstone as Leyton’s slightly more up-scale sibling – similarly diverse and no-nonsense, and without the airs and graces of Clapton or ‘Walthamstow Village’ to the north.Like them, a steady stream of young, middle-income families who can’t afford Hackney have recently moved in, extending lofts and filling side returns. But with them has come a sense that change is in the air, a soft breeze of new life that enhances rather than compromises the concrete sense of identity here.
Leyton and Leytonstone don’t try to be something they’re not. And, unlike some of its neighbours, the area remains resolutely a place of birth as much as one of choice.
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