Tollington’s has taken what was once a Finsbury Park fish and chip shop and still looks exactly like a Finsbury Park fish and chip shop, with its tiled floors, old school pine counters, and original sign intact. Which actually makes it feel more like a backstreet San Sebastian pintxos bar than any fancy refit ever could. There are tables in the back room, but the party is in the perching room-only front bar, where wrinkly Canary Islands-style spuds sit in the glass units that used to be home to battered sausages, and the fridges are stacked with bottles of effervescent txakoli wine, a kind of extremely drinkable Basque lady petrol. The menu is nothing but small plates, and there are plenty to pick from, with a 25-strong line-up of dishes from chips bravas, to pickled anchovies, devilled crab croquetas and a smoked eel omelette.
Finsbury Park – not just home to the relentless palace of fun (aka karaoke, bowling and booze slushies) that is Rowan's – but over recent years, it's become one of London's most interesting areas to grab an extremely good meal. In this busy pocket of north London you'll find restaurants serving up unsung global cuisine, impressive small plates at classy little wine bars, wildly cool gastropubs and some of our favourite cheap eats as well (shout out to the legendary Baban's Naan on Blackstock Road).
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Leonie Cooper is Time Out London’s Food and Drink Editor. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.