It’s 10 minutes before the shutters at Spanish-styled fish bar Tollington’s come up for evening service, and already the kind of crowd who could just as easily be found smoking rollies at the RA summer party have gathered in the hope of grasping a much-desired walk-in ledge.
Tollington’s is the latest opening from the folk who first popped up as burger boys Four Legs at The Compton Arms. In 2021 they launched The Plimsoll, a hype-y gastro reworking of an old Irish boozer popular for twenty-something gorp-core blokes and Brat summer girlies, and now they’re bringing the coolest of cool kids to the equally trendy Tollington’s.
Sassy smoked eel omelette, complete with a sultry yolk-y ooze, is the belle of the underwater ball
But don’t let that put you off. With all the talk of Hackney reaching its final form and becoming just another Clapham, it’s surely time for North London to shine. Tollington’s has subsumed what was once a Finsbury Park fish and chip shop, and created something that still looks exactly like a Finsbury Park fish and chip shop, with its tiled floors, old school pine counters, and original sign intact. Which actually makes it feel more like a backstreet San Sebastian pintxos bar than any fancy refit ever could. There are tables in the back room, but the party seems to be in the perching room-only front bar, where wrinkly Canary Islands-style spuds sit in the glass units that used to be home to battered sausages, and the fridges are stacked with bottles of effervescent txakoli wine, a kind of extremely drinkable Basque lady petrol.
The menu is nothing but small plates, and there are plenty to pick from. We only make the smallest dent in the 25-strong line-up of dishes. Chunks of unadorned baguette comes first, before chips bravas, a dish where Tollington’s promise of British produce with Iberian delivery speaks loudest, via the medium of fat, crispy potatoes smothered in creamy aioli and smokey bravas sauce. Pickled anchovies are hench and decidedly zingy. Devilled crab is deep fried and takes the shape of two hefty croquetas. Everything aims high and delivers, but it’s the sassy smoked eel omelette, complete with a sultry, yolk-y tortilla ooze, that’s the belle of the underwater ball. May they keep it on the menu until the end of time. There are also a couple of meaty dishes for those who cannot survive on fish alone. We plump for a plate of juicy, expertly cooked pork neck, adorned with grilled plum and tart slivers of pickled red onion. A delight.
Finally, flan. This one wibbles and wobbles in an audacious fashion, and there’s a citrusy sharpness to proceedings which stops this faithful take on the trad dessert from ever feeling cloying.
That Tollington’s has become instantly popular is no surprise – and if you know what’s good for you, you’ll be queuing outside on the pavement before too long.
The vibe A vintage chippy turned exceedingly hip seafood bar.
The food Spanish-inspired fish and seafood small plates made with British produce.
The drink Chilled, European-style drinking is the move, with little Estrellas for £2.30 (jugs for £12), spanish cider, and glasses of vermouth and fino sherry for under a fiver. God-tier sparkling water Vichy Catalan is also available.
Time Out tip Order the smoked eel omelette and a tiny beer and get in and out for under £15.