Could Las Vegas be staging a comeback?

A certain kind of musician once lived their winter years in Vegas. A run of nightly shows in a casino’s concert hall – known as a residency – was, until recently, a staple for the likes of granny-pleasers Barry Manilow and Donny Osmond. These days, we’re looking at dates from Lady Gaga, Drake and other artists in their pomp (like Liberace and the Rat Pack were when the concept was conceived). But isn’t it still just a tacky place to play? I’m violating the ‘what happens in Vegas’ rule to see if, beyond the headliners, there’s more to the world capital of gambling than fear, loathing and Cirque du Soleil.

Downtown Las Vegas

I start off by exploring Downtown, where I’m surprised by the energy of a neighbourhood on the cusp of cool, based around Fremont Street. The city’s first paved road was once known as Glitter Gulch, as it’s where the famed ‘bright lights’ initially shone: its retro signage is a throwback to the Elvis days that can also be enjoyed at the nearby Neon Museum. There’s grungy, Evel Knievel-themed pizza joint Evel Pie and Container Park, a hub of shipping units housing indie shops and street food. Many discover the area at Life Is Beautiful, a three-day festival this year headlined by Chance The Rapper.

‘This is where Elvis came to die, but now we have Las Vegas musicians who are proud of where they’re from’

And then there’s 11th Street Records – a store that could be in any US hipster ’hood, filled with vinyl from Vegas’s glory days, plus rare punk records. The shop’s owner Ronald Corso waxes lyrical about the city’s grassroots scene (while his French bulldog Big Steve snuffles by my legs) citing The Bunkhouse, Backstage and Beauty Bar as the best places to catch local acts, as well as Neon Reverb, his own music festival. ‘This is where Elvis came to die, but now we have Las Vegas musicians who are proud of where they’re from,’ he says. He’s keen to replicate the residency format in these off-Strip venues.

11th Street Records in Downtown Las Vegas

An elderly woman in rave gear interrupts our chat in search of Daft Punk LPs. Despite 11th Street Records’ best efforts, EDM has cast one of the largest spells on the city and this OAP isn’t the only sign; Calvin Harris, Diplo and David Guetta are splashed across billboards. At the Palms Casino Resort where I’m staying, state-of-the-art club Kaos recently opened (part of a mega-dollar refit that sees a Damien Hirst shark suspended above the hotel bar). It books big-name DJs and a Cardi B residency. This impressive mega-club suits the grandeur of Sin City.

Kaos also throws notorious pool parties as part of a burgeoning daytime scene (it makes sense in a city where time is lost). But I head to one at the new NoMad hotel. Mark Ronson and Questlove – who in a recent interview described Las Vegas as ‘the new LA’ – have both played at the pool since it launched this year. The look, in true Vegas style, is modelled on Marrakesh’s Jardin Majorelle, and locals and Hollywood extras warm up for the weekend to the sound of pounding-yet-decent disco and tropical house.

Mark Ronson DJs at the Nomad’s pool party

Back in Casinoland, Lady Gaga’s show is being staged at the 5,000-capacity Park Theater, where Janet Jackson and Cher also have 2019 dates and where Bruno Mars is playing while I’m in town. It’s part of the Park MGM, which at the end of last year gained a 24-hour version of New York’s popular Italian food court Eataly as well as Best Friend, a buzzy Korean-Mexican restaurant from trendy LA food-truck chef Roy Choi. Hidden behind a fake convenience store and with nightly DJs playing loud party tunes, you could forget you’re dining in an old casino.

Lady Gaga at the Park MGM

The same can’t be said of Bruno Mars’s show, which is blingy AF. Never mind ‘Versace on the floor’, there’s Versace everywhere. The production value of these residencies could easily justify the cost of flying out to Vegas for any megafan. And it seems a more varied music scene and some newer hangouts – that aren’t tacky, but are in OTT keeping with the city – could keep newcomers away from the slot machines altogether. Las Vegas might be staging a comeback to its hip-shaking heyday.

Time Out travelled with www.visittheusa.com