The selection of meats (grass-fed veal, lamb shank, filet mignon, braised short ribs) is impressive, but the sides and the quiet invention shown in the kitchen distinguish Tom Colicchio’s Craftsteak from more run-of-the-mill casino steakhouses. Ingredients come from small family farms and other below-the-radar sources, and you can tell, particularly when it comes to the splurgy Japanese A5 Kobe, which will set you back a cool $260 for the eight-ounce filet. It’s all served in an elegant, if slightly noisy, atmosphere.
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