Les Solistes

French chef Pierre Gagnaire has enough Michelin stars to his name to have a small constellation named after him, and Les Solistes is his latest effort at the new Waldorf-Astoria in Charlottenburg. An anodyne luxury hotel interior is quickly forgotten once the splendid tasting menu begins (four courses at €115 or seven at €150). Changing seasonally, French classics are reinterpreted with panache by head chef Roel Lintermans, such as roasted pigeon in a blackcurrant and cherry compote, its leg served atop a heavenly dome of offal jelly, or a foie gras custard with sautéed squid. The chef’s signature showstopper ‘grand’ dessert course is a steady stream of jellied liquids, sorbets, caramels and reductions involving everything from coconut milk laced with tapioca pearls to luxuriant slabs of passion fruit fudge. Booking advised.