Nueng Nom Nua
Photograph: Nueng Nom Nua | Bangkok
Photograph: Nueng Nom Nua

Your ultimate guide to Banthat Thong

Sports shops and car-part garages gave way to tom yum, toast and sundaes worth cracking into

Tita Honghirunkham
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Banthat Thong used to sell football boots.

Banthat Thong used to sell football boots. Now this stretch beside Chulalongkorn University and near the National Stadium runs on jasmine-rice congee at Jok Sam Yan, Jeh O Chula’s tom yum Mama noodles and braised duck at Tang Sui Heng. Save room for toast at Nueng Nom Nua and the sugar-crusted Melting Sundaes at Ice Cream Samosorn.

Sports shops and car-parts garages once defined this part of Banthat Thong Road, with repairs spilling onto the pavement. Chulalongkorn University’s redevelopment reshaped the area during the 2010s, including the sports-focused Stadium One complex, which opened in 2018. The restaurant boom gathered pace after the pandemic, though the neighbourhood’s older kitchens were feeding people long before the food crowds arrived.

The street changes shift in the late afternoon. Shutters go up and neon comes on. Plastic stools multiply along the kerb, and garlic hitting a hot wok does the advertising. Students drift through in lanyards. Strangers with phones queue for instant-noodle tom yum. Dessert shops with their own fan clubs stay open past midnight.

There’s an argument going on here, too. In 2025, the university’s property management arm honoured 42 businesses that had been part of the Banthat Thong-Sam Yan area for more than 50 years. That same year, reporting documented falling visitor numbers and pressure from rents. Amarin’s Spotlight spoke to the owner of Jeh Bow chicken rice, who was leaving after 25 years in the community because the costs no longer added up. Old-school and algorithm-bait sit side by side, sometimes on the same stretch of pavement, and neither is going quietly.

This guide follows the day rather than the map: congee at dawn, braised duck while the sun’s up, then wok-fried noodles and omelettes before a long, sweet finish. Most stops are on Banthat Thong Road itself; the side-soi detours are marked below.

Start early

  • Street food
  • Chula-Samyan
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

Congee is the neighbourhood’s first shift, and Jok Sam Yan has been serving it for more than 65 years. The porridge uses sweet jasmine rice, with pork intestines and liver among the additions. Start with pork congee and add an egg, or go for the offal if that’s your breakfast. The Stadium One branch is the one covered here, near Soi Chula 6. An online menu lists the pork-only bowl at B70, though delivery and dine-in prices can differ. Early birds should check the opening time: the complex lists 5am, while the shop’s Wongnai page says 5.30am.

Address: Stadium One, 689-693 Banthat Thong Road, near Soi Chula 6, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan

Opening hours: Daily 5am–10am and 3.30pm–10pm
What to try: Pork congee, with an egg

  • Chula-Samyan

Haikee Kitchen suits anyone who normally only meets Banthat Thong after dark. Its signature stewed pork on rice follows a family recipe said to be more than 30 years old, cooked over charcoal and served with a punchy sauce to cut the richness. If you’re feeling less loyal to rice, there are egg noodles with the same pork, plus roasted pork ribs with a house sauce. It’s a homely lunch stop on Soi Chulalongkorn 12, with an earlier finish on Saturdays and no Sunday service.

Address: 2 Soi Chulalongkorn 12, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, off the main road
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat 9am-3pm; closed Sun.
What to try: Stewed pork on rice

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  • Chula-Samyan

This one went from pushcart to Bib Gourmand. Tang Sui Heng began in 1976 with a noodle cart pushed by a Mr Tang, moved through Saphan Luang and eventually settled at Stadium One. Duck runs through the menu, from sliced meat to feet and intestines. The sliced duck in a hot claypot comes in a dark, savoury-sweet Chinese herbal gravy; add egg noodles to soak it up. DanielFoodDiary’s April 2026 review found the sauce a little salty towards the end, so sharing is a sensible move. For something quicker, there’s sliced duck over rice. Go before the evening rush: it closes earlier than most of its neighbours.

Address: 649 Banthat Thong Rd, Stadium One, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan
Opening hours: Daily 10.30am–7.30pm
What to try: Sliced duck in hot claypot; add egg noodles

Eat after dark

  • Chula-Samyan

Despite the name, don’t expect a Japanese hotpot. Order dry suki at Elvis Suki and you get glass vermicelli wok-fried with egg, vegetables and your choice of pork, chicken, beef or seafood. The smoky, eggy sauce is the point, with beef and seafood the signature orders. Soup versions are available too. Stir-fried rice noodles with chicken, or kway teow kua kai,  are worth a second order if you have the stomach space. It’s a no-nonsense, wok-hei kind of place.

Address: 1456 Banthat Thong Rd, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan
Opening hours: Daily 3.30pm-midnight
What to try: Dry beef suki or seafood suki

  • Chula-Samyan

This is the splurge. Here Duan’s creamy omelette drapes soft, slightly runny egg over rice, with proper chunks of crab. An April 2026 review priced it at B590, the jumbo river-prawn omelette at B1,390 and stir-fried Mama instant noodles with shrimp at B260. That last dish is the cheaper way in, though all three sit well above a basic street-food bill. Check the latest menu before ordering. The Banthat Thong outlet has a retro Cantonese look, with wooden walls and jade-green tables, and tables can fill quickly. 

Address: 1982-1984 Banthat Thong Rd, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan
Opening hours: Daily 11am-11pm
What to try: Creamy crab omelette; stir-fried Thai instant noodles with shrimp

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  • Chula-Samyan

A short detour onto Soi Charat Mueang brings you to Jeh O Chula, the name many people mean by ‘that tom yum place’. Its tom yum Mama loads instant noodles into a tangy, mildly spicy broth, with toppings that can include shrimp, squid, pork, pork balls and egg. The noodles keep their bite even as the soup thickens. Add a shrimp omelette or sweet Chinese pork sausage if you’re sharing. Michelin featured Jeh O among its 2025 Bib Gourmand picks. The queue is the entry fee, so aim for just before opening on a weekday. A September 2026 guide reports use of the QUEiQ app, but check the queue system on arrival.

Address: 113 Soi Charat Mueang, Rong Muang, Pathum Wan, off Banthat Thong Road
Opening hours: Daily 4.30pm-midnight
What to try: Tom Yum Mama

Save room for the sweet end

  • Bakeries
  • Chula-Samyan

Call it a snack if that helps justify another stop. YOLK swaps the usual tart shell for a croissant-style pastry case with buttery, flaky layers. The original shop is a small counter on Banthat Thong Road, and the original caramel egg tart is the place to start. Eat it fresh, while the pastry is crisp and the custard glossy. Service may be quick when you catch a fresh batch, but don’t count on skipping the queue.

Address: 1424 Banthat Thong Rd, Rong Muang, Pathum Wan
Opening hours: Daily 3pm-11pm
What to try: Original caramel egg tart

  • Bakeries
  • Chula-Samyan

Toast, but serious about it. Phuket-born Nueng Nom Nua announces itself with a giant logo of a boy holding a shokupan bun. Bread is baked in-house, with shokupan, charcoal chocolate and pain de mie among the choices, toasted crisp outside and light within, then cut into sticks for dipping. The medium set has been listed as three slices cut into nine sticks, with three sauces chosen from 19; check the current menu for the selection. Pandan and coconut-milk custard, salted egg yolk custard and Hokkaido milk cream are good starting points. Queues form before the 4pm opening.

Address: 1471 Banthat Thong Rd, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan
Opening hours: Daily 4pm–1am
What to try: Medium set with pandan custard

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  • Ice cream parlors
  • Chula-Samyan

On Soi Chula 1, just off Banthat Thong Road, Ice Cream Samosorn takes its swimming-club colours from an owner’s childhood habit of stopping for ice cream after a swim. Samosorn means ‘club’, and the house-made flavours reach back to familiar childhood treats: sour milk, raw Milo, Yakult and Nesvita have all featured, while the house flavour combines Thai tea, Hokkaido milk and blue spirulina. The Melting Sundae range hides sauces and toppings beneath the ice cream. The banana crème brûlée version layers banana, vanilla cream and caramel under a caramelised sugar crust, with ice cream added at the table. Crack through with a spoon and let it sink in. Other versions have included kopi tiramisu, Crazy Chocolate and Uji matcha lava. The large sundaes suit sharing, and the small shop can mean a wait in the evening.

Address: 368 Soi Chula 1, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
Opening hours: Mon–Thu 4pm–midnight, Fri–Sun 4pm–1am.
What to try: Banana cream brûlée mlting sundae

Before you go

When to go. The street wakes up properly after sunset, with roughly 6.30pm-9.30pm a good window for the full evening bustle. Many places open between 3pm and 4pm. Daytime suits the older shops: make Haikee a lunch stop, get to Tang Sui Heng before 7pm and aim early for congee. 

Getting there. BTS National Stadium works for the northern end; walk west along Rama I Road to Banthat Thong Road, then turn south. MRT Sam Yan serves the university side, while MRT Hua Lamphong is another option for the southern end. Pick your first stop before choosing a station: this is a food crawl, but it needn’t start with a trek.

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