L'Ardente

Chef-restaurateur David Deshaies is a newly minted member of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France, but don’t let his Gallic roots get in the way of enjoying some of the city’s best pasta. At his “glam Italian” restaurant, the 40-layer lasagna, filled with short rib sugo and truffle-scented mornay sauce, gets the most word-of-mouth. But don’t miss the oversized veal parmigiana, blanketed in bubbly cheese, which will eclipse any version of the dish you’ve had before.