New Orleans is no doubt one of the world’s greatest food cities. Food is culture here, and while it seems cliche, it does bring people together. Locals patronize their favorite restaurants—ones that have been around for generations—and often pass the time talking about culinary memories and future feasts. Visitors plan their itineraries around their stomach space, checking off bucket-list restaurants for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Festivals throughout the year celebrate everything from gumbo and beignets to crawfish and creole tomatoes. The food, like the city, reflects a melding of cultures, from African and Caribbean to French, Spanish, Italian and Vietnamese. Creole and Cajun flavors dominate, and everything mixes in delicious harmony. From historic white tablecloth restaurants to classic hole-in-the-wall institutions, you’ll experience the flavors and rhythms of the city at every meal.
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One would have to spend a couple of weeks in New Orleans to really cover all the must-try dishes. Plus, some local favorites like raw oysters and crawfish are seasonal, limiting the window for enjoying the best of the best. And trying an iconic dish in the city is about the where as much as the what—gumbo at a fine dining restaurant is a completely different experience than gumbo at a neighborhood joint or at a festival, which just goes to show you how much culture is associated with each dish. The city has enjoyed an influx of new flavors and buzzy new restaurateurs—from Honduran and Mexican to Senegalese and Indian (personally, I was very excited when Queen Trini Lisa started cooking up doubles and other Trinbagonian soul foods)—but the traditional dishes New Orleans is known for reflect the true beating heart of the city. Here are some of the must-try New Orleans foods and where to get them.
Shrimp Po’boy
The origins of the po’boy as a humble sandwich served to striking streetcar workers is well-known local lore, but this sandwich has evolved into one of the most iconic New Orleans foods. Everyone has their favorite local po’boy spot as well as their favorite po’boy (and to get more nuanced—favorite po’boy bread). From a sloppy roast beef with debris to a crunchy fried oyster, you can’t go wrong, and you won’t leave hungry. A fried shrimp po’boy is my go-to, and the best one is at the longtime neighborhood favorite Parkway Bakery and Tavern. Spilling over with perfectly-fried Gulf shrimp, this po’boy is even better because of the super-friendly, laid-back vibe. Other top options include Domilise’s, Liuzza’s by the Track (try the barbecue shrimp po’boy), and Radosta’s. Killer Poboys even offers vegetarian po’boy options.
Gumbo
Gumbo is a staple of home cooking, but because it's so time-consuming, I rely on the many experts around the city to get a fix. For a classic chicken and andouille gumbo, you can find a rich, smoky version at Gris-Gris. Brigtsen's serves a must-try dark roux, Cajun style. A favorite at Dooky Chase's includes crab, shrimp, chicken, two kinds of sausage, ham and veal, while the Gumbo Z’herbes—made with nine different greens—is a once-a-year specialty served only on Holy Thursday (the Thursday before Easter). For an indulgent option, Restaurant R'evolution offers "Death by Gumbo"—featuring a base poured tableside over a tiny quail stuffed with poached oysters, smoked andouille sausage and rice. The Tremé Creole Gumbo Festival is the perfect spot to try several different options—including an award-winning vegan version—all in one spot. One of the very best in the city is at Liuzza's by the Track. It's delicious all around, but what makes it extra special is the Gulf shrimp cooked fresh to order and added to the gumbo before serving. Pair it with a big schooner of beer for the full experience.
Crawfish
Boiled crawfish usually starts making an appearance on menus in late February or early March. Peak season for crawfish boils is generally April and May, when they’re big and juicy and their shells aren’t too hard. Crawfish boils are communal events, when everyone gathers around a big table—usually outside—to pinch the tails and suck the heads as soon as the pot is dumped over, spilling a bounty of spicy crawfish, corn, mushrooms, sausage and whatever else the cook has decided to throw in the pot. Restaurants like Clesi’s, Castnet, Frankie & Johnny’s and Mr. Shrimp’s Kitchen churn out some of the best boiled crawfish around. During the season, bars and breweries around town host crawfish boils on the weekend. Other essential crawfish dishes include crawfish bread, Crawfish Monica and crawfish boudin—all can be found at Jazz Fest and other spots around the city.
Red Beans
Mondays in New Orleans are for red beans and rice. It’s a relatively simple, hands-off dish that can simmer all day. Mondays were traditionally laundry days, so red beans became a start-of-the-week staple. Restaurants around the city feature red beans and rice as a special on Mondays, typically served with a side of sausage, fried chicken, fried catfish or a pork chop. You can find refined versions at classy spots like Luke or Miss River (featuring Chef Alon Shaya’s wife’s famous recipe), or hefty portions with plenty of sides at neighborhood joints like Chicken’s Kitchen. Somewhere in between is the vibrant, convivial Joey K’s, which serves up an excellent version with smoked sausage. If you’re up for cooking a pot at home, a bag of Camellia beans—a favorite of local chefs—is the way to go.
Pho
The list of classic New Orleans dishes goes on and on—shrimp Creole, eggs Sardou, jambalaya, oysters Rockefeller, to name a few—and while many other communities have made an impact on the city, the Vietnamese community has had a strong presence since the late ‘70s. Locals love a good “Vietnamese po’boy” (banh mi), and pho has become a dish worth criss-crossing the city for. From Tan Dihn on the Westbank and Ba Mien in New Orleans East to Pho Orchid in Metairie and Lilly’s Cafe Uptown (which has a standout spicy shrimp pho on the menu, pictured above), New Orleans has a wealth of flavorful pho options to warm you on a cold day or pick you up after a night out. Pho involves the same kind of history, love, and culture as some New Orleans’ other classic dishes, and it definitely deserves a spot alongside the city’s other must-tries.