Time Out: Talk to the Chef
Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art
Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art

Chef Timothy Ordway of The Momentary and Crystal Bridges finds inspiration in the art

Quality ingredients, good flavors and a solid bowl of cereal are at the top of the list for the highly creative Bentonville chef.

Virginia Gil
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As far as inspiration is concerned, Timothy Ordway finds himself in one of the most enviable positions of any culinary professional. He’s the executive chef for Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, one of the foremost contemporary art institutions in the southeast, and its annex/restaurant, The Momentary, home to some of the world’s most prestigious collections.

Ordway, who’s tasked with crafting menus for regular service, special events, major celebrations and all kinds of happenings in between, finds no shortage of things to draw from when creating food-driven experiences for guests. Most recently, it was an exhibition focused on a hundred years of southern Black culture in America that sparked his imagination. “This one artist spoke about mining memory and collecting things that reminded them about their grandparents. We took that same concept and created our dessert, thinking of something that we'd find in our past, you know?”

Ordway and his team came up with a buttermilk pie with praline pecans and bourbon caramel sauce, spiking the topping as a nod to “the bourbon that's always either under the fridge or back in a counter somewhere,” he says. Making food plays one’s memories and creates a shared experience for all who enjoy it is only part of the fun. Here, Ordway tells us about the pleasures of eating regionally, what drives him to buy locally and the perks of cooking at a cultural institution. He also gets candid about his favorite food (hint: it’s a childhood classic) and the most important thing he’s learned from years of working in kitchens.

What role does Crystal Bridges play in the recipes you create for the institution?

This institution is a gathering place for all types of people. Diversity and inclusion are at the center of it; there are Spanish translations of every art description. Because we host a lot of events, our menus are focused on what’s around us. Being in the mountains in Arkansas, we’re really trying to make sure that there's a little connection to our surroundings and the space.

Do you feel like the museum’s cultural diversity has a direct correlation with the food and beverage program you've put together in terms of influences and offerings?

Yes, it does. We correlate the art around us and the happenings at the museum with the food. For instance, every month, I put together a program that’s specifically related to one of our current exhibits. I walk the exhibit and create an experience, which sometimes is a direct connection with the art and other times it draws from an emotion or a family memory. It’s a shareable food moment that connects the art with, the dining experience and what’s on the plate.

Do you have a larger guiding philosophy or principle when it comes to the cooking that you do?

What I tell our guests is that everything we do is flavor first. There's a lot of really pretty food that just, unfortunately, doesn't taste good. The effort that's put into research, development and technique could be absolutely amazing, but at the end of the day, if it doesn't strike that satisfaction of tasting good and hitting all the notes of being also welcoming to you, it doesn't strike well with me.

How do you approach regional cooking? Do you feel a tie to local produce or seasonality?

Yes, we are lucky to have a pretty solid growing region with a wide variety of things. I regularly visit farmers’ markets for my own personal needs, and I connect with the farmers while I'm there. Every time I use local products, I generally make sure that it's on the menu and that it's talked about. It's a shared commitment.

What’s your advice for people looking to eat more locally?

First, visiting your farmers’ markets and talking to people, that's always the first step. If you don’t know something, the people at the farmers’ markets do, so ask them questions. They'll know exactly where to find the one lettuce that you really enjoyed. Maybe you don't like grass-fed beef as much. Well, hey, this guy down the road does corn-fed beef and it's excellent.

Do you have a family recipe that you return to again and again, perhaps something that you grew up with?

Comfort food for me is whole chicken and rice. I go to chicken and rice in whatever culture it is, including a Filipino barbecue I used to have often. In terms of family and growing up, my mom used to do this mushroom and chicken dish that was so simple. It was just the canned mushroom soup, chicken breast, and rice. Nothing strikes more like I'm home, I'm comfortable than some version of saucy chicken and rice. I definitely do different versions of that at home. You know, my daughter loves it and we'll grill some chicken thighs and rice, and that makes me happy every day.

Is there a freezer or a pantry staple that you really can't do without?

I know if we don't have any sweet chili sauce in the house, it's a problem.

What would you choose as your last meal?

I have this problem with cereal, so it would probably be it. I went on a rant once with someone about how I have believed that some of these cereals may be like culinary perfection. Like, can I make it better Cinnamon Toast Crunch? I do not think I could. I would probably have a big bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch at this point.

What do you think is the greatest food and drink combo?

So, I'm all about an IPA and anything I can put next to that, that's fine. Barbecue, for instance, gives something sweet to go against the bitter. That's always nice.

Do you have a favorite food city in the U.S.?

I spent 10 years in Charlotte, North Carolina, and, in my mind, it's like a small version of New York. It's clean and you can find absolutely anything there. You walk around the corner and there are restaurants and bars everywhere. It's got everything—from the upscale to the comfort food to the drunk food.

What are some big things that you've learned from other chefs you've worked with?

The biggest thing I've learned I think from my chefs was maybe not about the food, but rather more about creating an atmosphere for my employees and for my team. I want to be at work, I love working and I want to make sure that they are sharing at least some of that enjoyment with me. I really try to make sure that if there are any concerns, any mental health focuses needed, that we really work together. And we're a team—let's do this together.

If you could share something about maybe Arkansas cuisine with people in other parts of the country, what would you highlight?

I'd say the Northwest Arkansas area specifically is just exploding. There's a huge influx of people and with that comes spreading diversity, it's the perfect condition for an expanding food scene. I mean, we're getting new markets and we're getting new restaurants coming around and these places are getting traction, which is nice.

Sponsor

Chef Ordway's cucumber & radish tart, with yogurt, dill and chive

Chef Ordway created this recipe — inspired by Arkansas, the natural state — for Sam's Club Mastercard cardholders with Member's Mark ingredients that can be found exclusively at Sam's Club.

Ingredients

For the crust
• 1 cup Member’s Mark All-Purpose Flour*

• ½ cup almond flour

• ½ cup Member’s Mark Powdered Sugar*

• ½ tsp Member’s Mark Mediterranean Sea Salt*

• 4 oz Member’s Mark Unsalted Sweet Cream Butter,* cubed & chilled

• 1 egg

For the rest
• 3 cups Member’s Mark Plain Nonfat Greek Yogurt*

• ½ cup chives, chopped finely (more unchopped for garnish, but only slightly chopped)

• ¼ cup dill, chopped finely (keep for garnish, but only slightly chopped or plucked from the
stems)

• 2 medium cloves garlic, grated or 1 tbsp minced garlic

• 3 tbsp Member’s Mark Mediterranean Sea Salt*

• 1 tsp ground coriander

• Cracked black pepper

• 3–4 medium pickling cucumbers, sliced thinly

• 2 cup apple cider vinegar

• 1 cup Member’s Mark Sugar*

• 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds

• ¼ tsp celery seeds

• 6 red or other seasonal radishes, sliced thinly

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Instructions

• Combine flour, almond flour, powdered sugar and salt in a food processor, pulse to combine

• Add butter and combine quickly, you should see small granules of butter in mixture. Do not over mix

• Add the egg and mix until just barely combined. Again, do not overmix

• Chill dough for 1 hour before using

• Strain any extra moisture from the yogurt and combine with chives, dill, garlic, 1 tbsp sea salt, coriander and black pepper

• To start pickling, combine the thinly sliced cucumbers with the remaining sea salt in a bowl, mix; and then let stand a few minutes while you prepare the liquid

• Combine vinegar, sugar and seeds in a small pot and bring to a warm simmer to melt the sugar, allow to cool to room temperature

• Pour liquid over cucumbers and refrigerate overnight or until ready to use

To make the tart
• Begin by pressing the tart dough into a 9 inch tart pan or pie pan

• Blind bake the tart shell in the oven at 350°F until golden and fully baked, about 12–18 minutes, use pie weights to keep shell’s shape while baking

• Allow to cool completely

• Using a large spoon, spatula or piping bag, fill cooled tart shell with yogurt mixture, leaving room on top for the cucumbers and radishes

• Using a colander, strain the liquid from the cucumbers, and let hang in a colander to dry a bit, careful not to add excess liquid to the tart

• Assemble cucumbers atop the yogurt with alternating radish slices

• Add plenty of fresh herbs to the top

• Slice & serve immediately or chill & save for 1-2 days

*Member’s Mark products can be found exclusively at your local Sam’s Club

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