Out on the western tip of Honshu, mountainous Yamaguchi is bounded by the sea on three sides, ensuring a steady supply of superb seafood. Known as ‘the Kyoto of the West’, the city can be reached via the Shin-Yamaguchi Shinkansen station.
TIP: Pulled by a steam locomotive, the SL Yamaguchi tourist train chugs between Shin-Yamaguchi and Tsuwano stations nearly every weekend from May.
JR Yamaguchi Line train from Shin-Yamaguchi Station, alight at Yudaonsen Station (20 min)
Walk (13 min)
Pleasant café where you can carb up with crisp and firm French toast or your pick from dozens of other freshly baked breads and pastries.
4-2-18 Yudaonsen, Yamaguchi / Closed Mon.
Walk (5 mins)
JR Bocho Line bus from Yudaonsen-dori bus stop, alight at Shokokaikan-mae (5 mins)
Walk (5 mins)
YCAM is one of Japan’s leading media art institutions, noted for its original exhibitions created by artists such as Ryuichi Sakamoto together with the centre’s crew of specialists.
7-7 Nakazonocho, Yamaguchi / Closed Tue (Wed if Tue is a holiday).
Walk (6 mins)
JR Bocho Line bus from Shokokaikan-mae bus stop, alight at Bijutsukan-mae (5 mins)
Walk (4 mins)
The riverside Yanagiya sports an eye-catching tiled roof, and for good reason. Their speciality is kawara soba: tea-infused noodles cooked on and eaten off a roof tile.
2-2 Shinbaba, Yamaguchi / Closed Wed, 3rd Thu of the month.
Walk (18 mins) OR Taxi (7 mins)
Potter Gakuji Masui describes his practice as a balancing act between control and chance – a duality evident in his graceful tableware, fired on the grounds of a Buddhist temple.
At Toshunji Temple, 5-27 Mizunouecho, Yamaguchi.
Tranquil Zen temple and park with scenic views, a pretty pond and a National Treasure-designated pagoda (cloaked in scaffolding until spring 2026 due to repairs).
7-1 Kozancho, Yamaguchi.
Taxi (7 mins)
The pour-overs are always on point at this urban oasis of a café, which feels contemporary despite opening more than two decades ago.
2-2-5 Dojomonzen, Yamaguchi.
Walk (6 mins)
JR Akiyoshi Line bus from Chugoku Denryoku yab-mae bus stop, alight at Shimoyuda (5 mins)
Walk (5 mins)
Watch the best of the day’s catch get cut up into sashimi or grilled on skewers while you sip local sake at this fish-focused izakaya.
1-10 Sufucho, Yamaguchi.
Walk (6 mins)
A smart take on the classic Japanese spa resort, Onn marries tatami-mat surfaces and wooden detailing with contemporary cool. Private hot-spring baths available.
4-5-2 Yudaonsen, Yamaguchi.
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