Shinjuku at night
Photo: Jean Vella/UnsplashShinjuku after dark
Photo: Jean Vella/Unsplash

Things to do in Tokyo when you've missed the last train

The best places to hang out if you're stranded in Shinjuku, Shibuya or Roppongi at night after the trains have stopped running

Emma Steen
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Despite being one of the most advanced cities in the world, Tokyo has a lack of late-night public transport options. In fact, the trains end their service around 1am and only resume at about 4.30am.

This can leave you with a dilemma. On a night out with friends, as the clock ticks down, you know you ought to leave in time for the last train. You announce this to your group, swearing that the drink in your hand will be your last. Alas, time slips by and before you know it, you’ve missed the last train home.

You’re now faced with three options: a pricey taxi ride, an even more costly hotel room or staying out until the trains start running again the next morning. Thankfully, for those opting for the third way, there are plenty of exciting venues in Shinjuku, Shibuya and Roppongi to provide you with all kinds of enjoyment until the dawn trains depart. Here are our favourites.

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Shinjuku

  • Hotels
  • Shinjuku

More than simply ‘sleeping with books’, as is the concept at other book hotels, Book and Bed’s niche is almost like ‘sleeping as a book’: one-person sleeping compartments are built into the bookshelves, with the upper tiers accessed via ladder.

Book and Bed’s owners stress that their accommodation is geared more towards a night of blissful sleep brought about by bedtime reading, rather than by comfort, but it makes for a memorable one-night experience before staying elsewhere for the rest of your trip.

It’s also possible to simply hang out in the spacious lounge during the day, flipping though the library of over 2,500 titles curated by hipster-friendly bookstore Shibuya Publishing & Booksellers (though Book and Bed is billed as an ‘accommodation bookstore’, these aren’t for sale). Day use starts at just ¥700 per hour and you can extend for however long you wish to stay.

  • Cinemas
  • Shinjuku

The best thing about catching a newly released blockbuster movie past midnight is not having to fight for the last remaining tickets and settling into a seat that’s too close to the screen. This seven-storey cinema, under the iconic Shinjuku Godzilla, features 12 theatres, with screenings sometimes scheduled from after midnight.

Toho Cinemas also boasts the latest theatrical technology including Imax screens and MX4D theatres with seats that can recline, move and even spray water at you for added special effects. 

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  • Sport and fitness
  • Shinjuku

With its blacklit lanes, Copabowl is an especially funky bowling alley – plus it gives you the option of adding a few stakes to your game to liven things up a bit. Its ‘batsugame’ system offers a series of punishments that the player with the lowest score has to face upon losing the game.

For ¥500, you can pick a formidable punishment from hard-to-swallow concoctions to edible locusts. Sentence your opponent to an even more gruesome challenge for ¥2,500, which will expand your choices of edible insects, including scorpions. 

  • Health and beauty
  • Spas
  • Shinjuku

In hectic, and at times grubby, Shinjuku, urban spa Thermae-Yu is an oasis of calm and cleanliness featuring eateries, lounge chairs and several hotspring baths. Spend a night soaking your worries away in a hot bath and consider getting a massage to help you snooze as you await your first train.

There are both indoor and open-air baths with different minerals, all at varying temperatures. Thermae-Yu has water delivered daily from Izu, an area famous for its natural volcanic springs, to fill the rotenburo (open-air baths).

If you don’t fancy getting your hair wet, try a unique Japanese sauna experience in one of the stone rooms. The ganbanyoku stone saunas are set between 40°C and 50°C. Depending on what type of stone you’re lying on, benefits are said to range from improved metabolism to better blood circulation. It’s hard to vouch how effective one session will beat improving your overall well-being, but at the very least your muscles will become less tense from the heating effects of the stones beneath you.

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  • Ramen
  • Shinjuku
  • price 1 of 4

Located on the second floor of an old wooden house in Golden Gai, Nagi comes steeped in the atmosphere of the neighbourhood, with a smell that hits you as soon as you walk in the door. And no wonder – the speciality here is pungent niboshi ramen, made by boiling vast amounts of dried sardines for 12 hours to create a distinctive, boldly flavoured soup.

We recommend the Tokusei Sugoi Niboshi Ramen, which comes generously laden with slices of chashu pork, menma (seasoned bamboo shoots), scallions, nori seaweed and a soft-boiled egg, and with a mix of curly and wide, flat noodles. As an added bonus, Nagi is open for business 24 hours a day, meaning you can start and end a heavy night out with a bowl of noodles.

Roppongi

  • Cocktail bars
  • Roppongi
  • price 2 of 4
Tusk
Tusk

Plenty of shot bars in Roppongi will serve cheap tequila until the sun rises, but it’s hard to find a decent cocktail bar that is open past midnight. Tucked away in a corner of Roppongi Hills is Tusk, a relaxed bar reminiscent of the classic watering holes of New York.

The spacious venue, complete with a DJ booth and VIP section, is accented by two vibrant artworks by Masashi Ozawa. Alongside classic cocktails, wine and spirits, the menu also includes a selection of bar snacks such as rusks with a mascarpone dip and a charcuterie board. 

  • Roppongi
  • price 1 of 4

Late-night dessert bars are hard to come by in a city that tends to prefer hot bowls of ramen for after-dark munchies, but Yelo is a gem for those looking to satisfy their sweet tooth after a late dinner. Tiramisu, matcha and mango milk are only a few of the basic flavours on the kakigori menu, along with more unusual combinations like avocado mascarpone and hojicha kinako (roasted green tea with soybean powder).

At first, the enormous mountain of fluffy shaved ice might look big enough for two or three people to finish, but it’s so exquisite you’ll find yourself easily demolishing the whole thing. Customise your snowy mound with toppings such as oreo, shiratama (mochi dumplings) and extra milk sauce if you’re feeling extravagant. There are also boozy kakigori options, like the mint-chocolate-flavoured Grasshopper, which comes served in a martini glass.

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  • Roppongi
  • price 1 of 4
Tsurutontan Roppongi
Tsurutontan Roppongi

This branch of hip noodle chain Tsurutontan is busiest at lunch, dinner and 5am, when club-goers sit down for a wholesome meal to close the night before straggling home, and no wonder. The chain offers an extensive variety of dishes perfect for post-dancing calories.

Menu items range from the simple kitsune (fried tofu) udon and classic curry udon with slices of beef to carbonara udon that might just pass for breakfast with its toppings of egg and bacon. You can decide on the amount of noodles you want: choose one bundle for the standard serving or up to double the noodles for no extra charge.

Shibuya

  • Music
  • Shibuya

Some clubs will only open their doors during the weekends – Womb isn’t one of them. Every night is a party at Womb, with music ranging from electric house to hip hop blasting through the speakers across its three-storey venue.

Each night of the week has a different theme; certain nights are reserved for bass music with some trap and hip hop, while others are soundtracked by a mix of electro house. 

Fees on other nights vary, but prices start from ¥1,000 and you can often get a discount if you pull out the event’s digital flyer (available on the club’s social media channels) at the door.

  • Attractions
  • Shibuya

A saving grace for fans of indoor recreation, EST Shibuya is a playground of ping pong tables, billiards and bowling alleys. There are four floors reserved for bowling alleys alone, where if you’re hungry you can order a snack from the touch panels available at every lane. Games cost ¥600 (5pm to closing) plus ¥350 for shoe rental.

If knocking down pins isn’t your thing, you can test your hand-eye coordination at the arcade on the first floor where there are a number of claw machines and photo booths that give you the chance to take home some memorabilia from your spontaneous all-nighter.

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  • Shibuya

At the top of Shibuya’s Dogenzaka, you’ll find what appears to be a small chapel with a cross on either side of its grand double doors. But while it may have wooden pews and stained glass windows, don’t expect The Church to be open for Sunday Service.

This candlelit venue is another one of Shibuya’s several nightlife hubs cleverly disguised as a modest little place of worship, where organ music has been replaced by house and techno. There’s even a confessional up front, for repentant sinners who want to fess up to their debauchery. 

We reckon the bar could have had a little more fun naming the drinks (from ¥700) on its menu, which is a standard selection of spirits and mixers, along with wine, champagne and a few bottled beers. Nontheless, the theme is there, with bartenders dressed as nuns taking orders at the counter.

Thankfully, there aren’t any table charges, so it’s easy for anyone to poke their head in for a quick drink and some music – the bar hosts regular DJ events – before hopping to the next venue. 

  • Nightlife
  • Late-night bars
  • Shibuya

One of Shibuya’s many ‘box clubs’, this DJ bar in the backstreets of Jinnan is known for hosting the occasional secret set from big-name spinners. No matter who is playing the small dance floor, 20 is a crowd here, meaning more enthusiastic foot tapping and less aggressive booty-shaking.

The capital’s audiophiles praise Koara’s sound system as one of the finest in town – hear it for yourself on the weekend, when up-and-coming locals usually take charge of proceedings. Entrance fees are rare and drinks are very reasonably priced.

More things to do after dark

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