Upon arrival, the first thing we noticed was the location: the temple is perched on a mountainside high above a river valley, providing an astounding view of the Mitsumine (‘three peaks’) mountains of Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. Once we were all settled in the sturdy main building, the ‘activities’ commenced with an introduction to sutra copying, which tested our patience and steadiness of hand, and also whetted our appetite just in time for the shojin ryori (Buddhist cuisine) dinner. After our tasty vegetarian meal, made mainly with ingredients sourced from local farmers, the good monk taught us more about Zen, its concept of ‘mu’ (‘without’ or ‘nothingness’) and how meditation can help us rid ourselves of everyday pressures. A stressed-out salaryman in his past life, Mr Asami sure knows what he’s talking about — and with his teachings in mind, we closed out the day with a soak in the outdoor bath.
Heading to bed early turned out to be an inspired move, as we were able to get up in time to breathe in the clear morning air and catch the sun rise above the nearby peaks. Next, it was finally time to try out zazen (‘seated meditation’, the core of Zen), practised in a purpose-built hall that boasts some of the best views on the premises. Listening to the detailed instructions, we were happy to learn that lapses in concentration wouldn’t be punished with a swift swing of the ‘encouragement stick’ (unless you like that sort of thing, in which case you can ask for it). It wasn’t until the mind-purifying but physically challenging session (who knew sitting in half-lotus for half an hour could be so hard?) that we noticed the perfect quiet. This truly is a majestically serene place, which explains why Taiyoji has been frequented by those seeking solitude and inner peace ever since its founding back in 1313.
