The historical Fukagawa area in Koto Ward, part of the Edo-era shitamachi (downtown), is located just across the Sumida River from well-known neighbourhoods like Nihonbashi and Ningyocho but remains far more low-key and quiet than its western neighbours. Nevertheless, there’s plenty to see and do in this charming part of eastern Tokyo, even discounting the excellent Museum of Contemporary Art and the picturesque Kiyosumi Garden.
Known as the traditional home of sumo, Fukagawa reaches from Kiba and Monzen-Nakacho stations in the south to around Kikukawa and Sumiyoshi stations in the north, while Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Hanzomon and Oedo subway lines is a convenient place to start exploring from. This guide, written on the basis of recommendations from our readers, will get you acquainted with the area and help you discover some of the gems hidden among the narrow streets and wide canals of this time-worn but stylish ‘hood.