シスイ ドゥ
画像提供:シスイ ドゥ
画像提供:シスイ ドゥ

10 things to do around Omo5 Tokyo Otsuka hotel

Where to eat, drink and shop around this Tokyo city hotel in Otsuka, as recommended by the Omo rangers

Translated by: Shota Nagao
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For this new series of neighbourhood guides, Time Out Tokyo is collaborating with Hoshino Resorts’ Omo hotels to inspire you to get out and explore our beloved cities across Japan. Here you’ll find cafés, restaurants, bars and attractions recommended by each property’s Omo rangers, who are familiar and passionate about the neighbourhood which the hotel calls home. 

For the first instalment, we are kicking things off in the quaint neighbourhood of Otsuka in Toshima ward. Otsuka is just one stop away from the bustling Ikebukuro Station on the Yamanote Line, but it still retains a retro Showa-era streetscape, with the tram running through its centre.

Otsuka is peppered with old-fashioned, independent shops with close ties to the town, making it an appealing locale for an Omo hotel, which actively seeks out unique addresses within the city that have lots of understated or unexpected charm. This list will introduce you to hidden gems such as a public bathhouse that will soon celebrate its 100th anniversary, a restaurant where you can enjoy French can-can dance, as well as newly opened stores.

A long-established izakaya located a mere two minutes’ walk from the north exit of Otsuka Station, Otsuka Tori Chi has a nostalgic Showa-era interior bustling with locals any day of the week. This neighbourhood joint is so friendly that first-timers would instantly feel right at home, which is why the staff at Omo can be seen hanging out here during their time off. The laid-back atmosphere is suitable for solo diners as well as group gatherings.

The menu is mainly yakitori but also offers sashimi and eel dishes. The babatama plain omelette comes highly recommended, as it was created at the request of a regular customer named Baba. Takeaways are available.

Otsuka Tori Chu offers counter seats and a small tatami room on the first floor, while the tatami room on the second floor can accommodate up to 60 people.

Specialising in onigiri (rice balls), this shop established in 1960 is so popular that queues start forming even before it even opens. Waiting times of two to three hours are not unheard of.

Bongo’s onigiri are beloved for their crispy nori wrap and fluffy rice. There are more than 50 ingredients to choose from, from standard favourites such as grilled salmon and ume plum to more unusual options such as herring roe and chilled soy sauce-marinated egg yolks.

If you are unsure which to choose, do refer to the Top 10 list posted in the shop. Omo rangers, however, recommend the egg yolk with minced meat.

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Otsuka is known to be the place to taste some fine sake, and there’s no better place to take your first sip than Kushikoma. The izakaya is one of the first businesses to introduce Yamagata's Jyushiyo, now a rare sake, to Tokyo. Even after the demise of the previous owner, who promoted the popularity of regional sake, Kushikoma still holds regular tasting sessions with sake brewers.

So here’s where to come for sake pairings. Upstairs, the okami (waitress) sits in front of the irori (open fireplace) and in winter she bakes ishiri-mochi, an exquisite rice cake made with Noto fish sauce. The tables here are made from sake barrels, adding a new touch to the warm decor.

Kushikoma can accommodate up to 20 people, so it’s recommended that you book ahead.

Note: Phone reservations are only available in Japanese. Otherwise, reservations must be made via the guest’s hotel or credit card concierge service. For more information, check the restaurant website.

Savour a mountainous plate of ginger pork at Tonkatsu Sansetsu

Tonkatsu Sansetsu is a deep-fried breaded pork speciality shop located on Sangyo-dori, a street that once flourished as a flower market. The restaurant has been satisfying the appetite of locals with a recipe that has remained virtually unchanged since its establishment in the Showa era. 

In addition to tonkatsu, the restaurant's other popular dish is the shoga-yaki set meal, which goes for ¥3,400 a plate. The sight of meat heaped up almost vertically against a generous pile of cabbage is a sight to behold. The meat is as thick as a steak, and when you bite into it, it’s juicy, plump and tender. The punch of ginger and garlic in the sweet sauce is lip-smackingly good.

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Leandro is a bar and café specialising in Madeira wine from Portugal, known for its unique sweetness and aroma. This establishment is even listed in the Guinness Book of World Records for having the largest stock of Madeira wine in the world.

Along with sherry and port, Madeira wine is one of the four most well-regarded fortified wines in the world. Those made in the 18th century are especially coveted. As Leandro carries a great variety of vintages, you can easily find a bottle of Madeira that was made in the same year you were born.

The wines on display can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, such as heated to lukewarm temperature or with some tonic. This is a rare opportunity to experience a unique wine right here in Tokyo.

Just three minutes’ walk from the south exit of Otsuka Station, this historical bathhouse has watched over Otsuka for almost a century. The name of the bathhouse, which translates to ‘Memorial’ in English, was called so as it was founded in the year 1926, when Japan transitioned from Taisho to Showa era.

Pass through the noren curtain at the entrance and you’ll see colourful boxes to store your shoes. Look up at the ceiling in the changing rooms and you’ll find an elaborate artwork of stars, satellites and planets in space. This ceiling painting was commissioned in 1989 to mark the end of Showa and the beginning of the Heisei era.

Kinen-yu hosts a wide variety of baths including jet baths and medicinal baths as well as a sauna on the second floor. The best part is, it’s open until 1am, making it possible to go there for a relaxing soak after work. Body soap, shampoo plus a selection of amenities are provided, so you can rock up empty-handed. Nevertheless, Omo5 rents out sento kits for its guests.

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While bookshops are slowly disappearing from the streets of Tokyo and some convenience stores are shortening their nighttime hours, Yamashita Bookstore keeps its lights on even in the dead of night. It’s also the only bookshop in Tokyo that has operated continuously 24 hours a day all year round since opening in 1999, except on the first three days of the New Year when it’s closed.

Late at night, customers can be seen perusing the books, dressed in pyjamas, sweatshirts and other comfy loungewear, a scene that is unique to a shop with close ties to the neighbourhood. As the bookstore is close to Omo5 Otsuka, you can always drop by when you can't sleep at night.

Take a two-minute walk from Otsuka Station’s south exit and you’ll come to an Italian restaurant with a twist – the waitresses at this restaurant are all dancers. Every Tuesday, a revue troupe headed by the owner of Tokyo Rouge bar performs the French can-can dance for diners to enjoy.

For one night each week, the two-part show is so glamorous and exuberant that it reminds people of the Moulin Rouge in Paris. You'll be clapping your hands in unison with the audience before you know it. Don’t forget to order a glass of wine with your pasta and just enjoy the show.

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Indulge in rich tantanmen noodles at Shanghai Chicken Xiaokouro

Walk into this Chinese restaurant frequented by locals and you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to a distant land resembling old Shanghai. The restaurant consists of two floors and they look very different from each other: the semi-basement ground floor is laid out like a food hall while the second floor has the setup of a classic Japanese izakaya.

The menu offers Shanghainese chicken and wholesome Chinese vegetable dishes, but a must-try is the famous tantanmen noodles (¥980). The thick sesame-based broth has a mouthwatering spiciness that pairs well with the herbs topping the noodles.

Hidden in a back alley, cosy Taiwanese eatery Mansion Taipei is conveniently located just four minutes on foot from the south exit of Otsuka Station. The menu mainly focuses on hearty home-cooked and stewed dishes, rather than the more mainstream favourites such as xiaolongbao or lu lo fan.

The con lo han, which is braised pork belly with skin on a skewer, is a must-try. On weekdays, the lunch set (¥1,100) with side dishes and soup is also recommended. For dinner, order a wide variety of small dishes to go with a glass of natural wine, which starts at ¥900 per glass.

About the hotel

  • Hotels
  • Otsuka

Omo5 Tokyo Otsuka opened in Otsuka in 2018 as the second hotel under Hoshino Resort's Omo brand of accommodations. Conveniently located only a minute away from Otsuka station, the hotel is surrounded by a lively station-front shopping street that retains a retro townscape. Till this year, the area is even serviced by old-school streetcars. 

At the hotel, spend a night in the spacious Yagura Room, a peaceful retreat that offers a much-welcomed respite from the frenetic energy of Tokyo.

Neighbourhood tours for Omo guests

For guests of Omo5 Tokyo Otsuka, you can go on a tour with the hotel’s inhouse neighbourhood experts called the Omo rangers. One of the guided tours revolves around the iconic local tram while another is a bar-hopping tour taking you to the rangers’ favourite watering holes in the neighbourhood. There’s also an all-round Otsuka neighbourhood tour introducing you to the area’s most notable attractions.

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