Kyukyodo

Japanese paper specialist Kyukyodo opened its first shop in Kyoto in 1663 and supplied incense to the Imperial Palace during the Edo period. Still run by the Kumagai family that founded it, the shop moved to Tokyo in 1880. This branch in Ginza, with its distinctive arched brick entrance, still sells incense, alongside a selection of seasonal gift cards and lots of small, moderately priced items (boxes, notebooks, picture frames) made from colourful washi. The interior and setup may be decidedly oldfashioned, but don't be deterred by that: you're very likely to walk out with a properly made Japanese-style gift for someone - possibly yourself.