Narita-based eel wholesaler Shinkawa specialises in sourcing the finest and fattest Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica) from a network of trusted farmers on the Mikawa Bay coast in Aichi prefecture as well as China. Their Tokyo Station outpost, housed in the underground Gransta Yaesu shopping centre near the JR station’s Yaesu Central Exit, serves up premium unagi cooked in seven different regional styles to cater to travellers from every part of Japan.
If you prefer your eel soft, go for the Kanto-style Edoyaki unaju, in which the fish served in a lacquer box over rice has been steamed in between two grillings for a feather-light mouthfeel. That texture combines nicely with the savoury tare sauce that’s a fixture of Kanto-style unagi. For a crispier consistency and stronger aroma, on the other hand, choose a Kansai-style dish such as hitsumabushi, in which the steaming part is skipped entirely and the grilled eel is lathered in a mildly sweet sauce.
Befitting the refined food, Unagi Narita Shinkawa offers a soothing, minimalist dining experience in a space that’s as close to being intimate as you can possibly achieve inside a hectic train station.