Eel has long been a staple of Japanese cuisine, most visibly as a food customarily eaten to restore physical energy through the hot and humid summer. Yet, reckon the operators of Unagi Hanabusa, the ingredient has much untapped potential beyond the traditional unaju and unadon. At this upscale unagi restaurant in Kagurazaka, eel-based dishes borrow from the kaiseki concept of Japanese fine dining are paired with wines for a sumptuous experience.
This is a true hideaway-style spot, despite being located just a three-minute walk from Ushigome-Kagurazaka Station. Passing through its basement-level door reveals an understatedly modern interior designed to highlight both the culinary offerings and the Japanese artworks on display. A counter hewn from fragrant hinoki wood seats up to eight diners, and a VIP room (four-person capacity) is also available for reservation.
Equal attention to detail goes into Hanabusa’s cooking, with the chef employing a grilling technique that originates in the Kansai region. It involves the open eel being slowly grilled over charcoal: the fish’s skin is gradually smoked, resulting in a crispy texture and a rich tang of umami.
In the evening, seasonal eel-based dishes can be sampled in the form of two omakase options complete with wine pairings (six dishes with four pairings at ¥20,000, or eight dishes with six pairings at ¥27,500). For lunch, choose from two multi-course meals (from ¥12,000) or go for the simple grilled eel on rice (¥6,000).