Umezushi

Beloved by the locals for more than four decades, Nakano's Umezushi keeps regulars coming back with its generous servings of good and honest seafood. Although the interior was completely renovated in 2014, this sure isn't a fancy place: the atmosphere resembles that of a private living room, albeit the decor is austere to say the least. There's nothing Spartan about the service, however: the friendly master piles the fish high on every ball of rice, with the gunkan rolls particularly overflowing. If you'd like to try all the goodies at once, order the eye-popping tokujo chirashi bowl (¥3,300), a gut-busting pile of sea urchin, salmon roe, tuna, crab, and...we might have lost track there somewhere.