In the summer of 2023, Yoyogi-Uehara unveiled an exciting new complex. Although modest in size with five stories, Cabo boasts a diverse array of facilities, including office spaces, charming mini bookstores and a stunning cocktail bar-café. A highlight of Cabo is the fresh and innovative fine-dining restaurant Ukiyo, led by the dynamic duo of sommelier Naoto Takeuchi and chef Toshi Akama. Their collaboration blossomed from their shared experience at the Nordic-inspired Meguro restaurant Kabi.
Chef Akama, who hails from Canada, stands out in Tokyo's culinary landscape as a rare example of a young chef under 30 leading a restaurant. Despite his youth, his culinary journey is impressive, with stints at prestigious establishments including the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Ikoyi in London. At Ukiyo, Akama crafts modern, seasonal tasting menus that fuse Japanese ingredients with exotic spices from across the globe. His plating style is deceptively simple, yet each element on the plate is a product of meticulous preparation, often requiring several days to perfect.
A unique feature of the restaurant is its cooking technique, primarily using a low and slow method over a charcoal grill. This approach not only intensifies the flavours of each ingredient through the smokiness of the red-hot embers but also offers greater control over the cooking process, which sometimes yields an ingenious solution.
For instance, during our visit, Chef Akama shared a story of turning disaster into delicacy. Following a flood in Akita, a supplier's tomatoes were overwatered. To rescue them, Akama painstakingly roasted the tomatoes over the charcoal grill for eight hours, transforming them into a rich paste, which he then aged for a week. Akama used a similar approach for a rich eggplant sauce that he seasoned with woody Penja peppercorns from Cameroon and a touch of sherry to pair with a cut of slow-roasted Hokkaido venison.
In Japan, where cuisine is traditionally very light on spice, many diners tend to equate spiced food with robust, curry-based dishes. Akama seeks to redefine this perception. His goal is to strike a delicate balance in his spice-infused creations, ensuring that every first taste is an eye-opening experience, yet never overpowering the palate.
This tight-rope balancing act is best exemplified in the use of a strained broth of five different peppercorns to add a hint of heat to a confit of octopus, complemented by umami-packed grains of selim to bring out the flavours and a garnish of black mint for zest. The dessert course is thoughtfully designed to provide a soothing counterbalance to the array of bold, spice-accented dishes. In warmer months, you can expect delights like a frozen mango custard with sweet cream infused with fragrant Jasmine rice, while winter might feature a creative twist on the classic apple crumble, jeujed up with vin jaune infused cream and anise hyssop vinegar.
Ukiyo has the potential to be one of the hottest restaurants in town, but as it has barely opened for a year, it's still building its clientele. To introduce more people to its exceptional cooking, the restaurant recently started serving a four-course lunch for just ¥3,800 from Thursday to Sunday. Dinner, on the other hand, comprises ten dishes at ¥15,000. For an additional ¥10,000, you can indulge in alcoholic pairings, which include a selection of wine, sake and shochu. Alternatively for those who prefer non-alcoholic options, there is a pairing of fermented fruit juices and teas for ¥6,000.