Tatsuya

Whether you're nearing the end of an all-night drinking session or just getting started, Ebisu's Tatsuya is a reliable place to stock up on that staple of salaryman cuisine, yakitori. This unpretentious eatery – instantly recognisable from the red lanterns hanging outside – stays open from 8am to 5am the following morning, and it's lively pretty much whatever time of day (or night) you choose to visit. Grilled chicken isn't the only thing on the menu, in fact: they also offer yakiton (grilled pork skewers) in a variety of cuts, including tan (tongue), hatsu (heart) and teppo (er, rectum), plus dishes likes atsuage (deep-fried tofu) and gatsushi (sliced pork tripe in vinegar and soy sauce – trust us, it's better than it sounds). The ground floor is usually occupied by elderly locals – and boisterous ones, at that – while the basement offers a slightly calmer atmosphere, with seating for up to 80 people.