Nagasaki

Housed in a building perhaps best described as 'retro chic', this popular diner opened in 1973 and continues to attract a steady stream of patrons. The L-shaped counter seats only nine, but the friendly master makes everyone feel welcome. Nagasaki's speciality is of course champon, served here with smooth, straight noodles in a mild soup with a strong veg contribution – the perfect energiser after a hard day at the office or on a cold winter night. Toppings include cabbage, bean sprouts, shrimp, squid, clam, pork, mushrooms and several kinds of pasted fish. For alternatives, go for the spicy kimchi champon (¥1,100) or the champon with seasoned cod roe (tarako, ¥1,100), and pick from sides like dish noodles (¥800), steamed shumai dumplings (¥500) and meat stew (¥550). The joint doesn't exactly look very welcoming from the outside, but those who enter will find their courage rewarded.