An acclaimed modern izakaya infused with the air of a Parisian brasserie, Lanterne now has a more mellow sister location. Named Lanterne Hanare and located in Higashi-Kitazawa, it is a perfect temporary hideaway from Tokyo’s sensory overload.
To create Lanterne Hanare’s pleasantly understated aesthetic, in which the Euro influence is more subtle than at Lanterne's other outlet in Ikejiri-Ohashi but still very much present, the team (who were also responsible for Aelu and Maison Cinquante Cinq) secured a property previously occupied for around five decades by an oden joint. It now has the relaxedly intimate atmosphere of a cosy Japanese residence, with little nods to Western art and music culture dotted around the space. A sizable u-shaped counter dominates the first floor, while upstairs await private rooms with table seating.
The menu is a compelling reinterpretation of that at the original Lanterne, which is known for its superior karaage fried chicken. That simple, succulent staple is offered here too, and joined by a new variation, exclusive to Lanterne Hanare, in which the karaage is stuffed with a chunk of sweet green onion (sourced from Ibaraki prefecture) alongside the chicken (¥950).
We recommend finishing an evening of small-plate izakaya dining with a seasonal dish of rice cooked in an earthenware pot: when we visited in midwinter, this featured sautéed oysters and a konbu-bonito broth (¥2,200).
Drinks-wise, the lineup includes the highball that traditionally accompanies karaage, as well as a sake and shochu selection that emphasises natural brewing.
Text by Darren Gore