Issho

Although Asagaya's Issho is firmly a tonkotsu specialist, you wouldn't be able to guess it from the shop's appearance: this sleek joint has none of the usual tonkotsu-esque trappings, classic rock is played on loop and the entire place looks almost, well, healthy. The staff are, however, meticulous when creating their signature broth, a thick but surprisingly elegant mixture that isn't too smelly and is made in separate pots for each part of the cooking process – all in order to draw out the maximum flavour from the pork bones. The soup alone makes Issho worth a trip, but you'll also want to pay attention to the toppings: the eight-strong selection ranges from classic char siu and veg to seafood and Italian-style tomato fare. Some might say such playfulness is a waste of a good broth, but we'd disagree: its true strength is in its versatility in accommodating various flavours. Only after you've tried all eight options will you be able to call yourself an Issho master.