Entering Ginza Fugetsudo, you know you’ve stumbled on something special. Tucked away on the second floor of a nondescript Ginza building, you’ll pass through a discrete sliding door to the tiny reception, where the counter is topped with a glass display of the three main wagashi on offer for the month. Confectioner Ishigaki-san, who hails from Okinawa and has been making wagashi all his life, crafts the sweets fresh to order – a rare experience, even in Japan.
The wagashi are expressive of the season. For example, in August, you might be served a sweet evoking the feeling of a summer evening festival, with a sheet of brown sugar jelly flecked with gold glitter like fireworks in a night sky; or a sweet resembling a green forest canopy during summer, with tinted bean paste and topped with shimmering clear jelly. Other sweets include delicate combinations of bean paste, agar agar and natural ingredients like anzu (Japanese apricot) and chestnut.
Tea and wagashi ranges from ¥1,500 to ¥1,900, depending on the wagashi. You can choose from different types of green tea, such sencha or hojicha, or for an extra ¥150, freshly whisked matcha. If you’re a sweet tooth – or just can’t decide – the ¥3,500 course lets you try three different varieties with tea pairings.