Ginza Enji

Popular for its smoked food made at its own factory in Karuizawa, this small restaurant has only 26 seats and boasts the dignified atmosphere of a chic bar. Specialities include smoked bacon, takuan pickles and cheese, served with a glass of Scotch. At lunchtime, the place is more like a folksy neighbourhood eatery. A big favourite is rice with egg – more specifically steamed rice with raw egg, sprinkled with smoked soy sauce, olive oil and sesame seeds, known here as 'the three steps of enjoyment'.