Game on

Hearty tonkatsu or a refreshing serving of soba for lunch, an indulgent sushi spread for dinner, and maybe an artistic parfait devoured somewhere along the way. We all have our own fantasies of the perfect day of eating in Tokyo, and the big-name stalwarts of Japanese cuisine dominate most of these delicious daydreams.

But for a growing contingent of local and visiting gourmands, game meat – from duck and pigeon to deer, boar and bear – now also figures prominently on Tokyo must-eat lists. While all but the most committed carnivores may not have noticed, wild meat has been making inroads in the capital’s gourmet scene over the past decade or so, and is enjoying the spotlight thanks to its versatility, sustainability, health benefits and – above all – palatability.

What’s behind the growing demand for game in Tokyo, and what makes hunted meat worth a punt? We spoke to two local game pioneers about the rise of what could be the next big thing in the capital’s food scene.

A taste of nature 

One of the driving forces behind the ascent of game in the capital is chef Takuto Murota of Aoyama restaurant Lature, who has been cooking with wild meat for more than two decades and goes duck-hunting in his native Chiba whenever he finds he time. Murota’s creative game dishes – including bear steaks flavoured with sansho pepper – have won him international recognition, and now up to half of his guests on any given night hail from overseas.

Murota recognises the connection between his success and the growing demand worldwide for culinary encounters unique to a specific place. ‘These days you can have sushi in any world city,’ he says, ‘but high-end Japanese game is a dining experience distinctive to Tokyo.’

To ensure top-notch quality, Murota sources all his meat via processing facilities that adhere to the game meat safety guidelines established by the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare. ‘This allows us to secure a steady supply of the best product,’ he says, ‘just like the way leading sushi restaurants source their tuna.’

For Murota, eating expertly prepared domestic game lets diners experience the natural environment of Japan through food. ‘Wild meat is special because the flavours are always in flux,’ he says. ‘What the animals eat differs depending on place and season, which impacts the taste.’ Each plate, in other words, has its own story – one that Murota is always eager to tell his guests. ‘[Eating game] can be way to learn about the seasons and our impact on nature, and can inspire appreciation for life itself,’ he says.

Building for success

While the flourishing of Japanese game cuisine has been fuelled by the talents and passion of chefs like Murota, anyone enjoying a succulent venison steak or piquant pâté en croûte in the country today owes a debt of gratitude to Norihiko Fujiki, director of the Japan Gibier Promotion Association. A chef and tireless evangelist for wild meat, Fujiki has been running his own game-focused restaurant in the mountains of Chino, Nagano since 1998. His organisation has been instrumental in promoting tasty game by drawing up national hygiene guidelines over the past 20 years, all while getting the word out about how the lean and nutrient-rich meat makes a superb source of protein.

According to Fujiki, Japanese game stands out thanks to the high standards introduced by the health ministry and ascribed to by hunters, meatpackers and chefs across the country. ‘Animals to be used as meat have to be processed at a ministry-approved facility, preferably as soon as possible after they’ve been killed,’ he explains. ‘The level of skill involved is what allows us to serve high-quality meat.’ The industry also seeks to minimise waste. ‘This goes back to the traditional Japanese idea of gratitude for and respect for life,’ says Fujiki.

The sustainability of wild meat is another key concern for Fujiki and his association. Game has a lower carbon footprint than farmed meat, and eating wild animals can help protect the environment in other ways, too. ‘Game consumption contributes to the ecological balance,’ explains Fujiki. ‘because there’s an untenable number of animals like deer and boar in [Japanese forests] now.’ With this in mind, the Gibier Promotion Association is working to make high-quality domestic game available beyond the world of fine dining. ‘Only about 10 percent of the meat of wild animals killed in Japan is eaten, with the rest going to waste,’ says Fujiki. ‘To change that, I want to make game a regular at the dinner table and in school lunches.’

Propelled by an increasing supply, a cadre of committed specialist chefs, and growing attention from local and overseas foodies alike, Japanese game is starting to look like a success story in the making. ‘Wild meat is becoming a recognised part of Japanese cuisine,’ says Takuto Murota. ‘I feel like it’s got great potential.’ And Tokyo is where the fruits of this culinary revolution can be tasted first. ‘The meat comes in from all over Japan,’ says Fujiki, ‘but Tokyo offers the greatest variety of game dishes, prepared by the best chefs.’