We’ve long known that Hiroyasu Kawate is a brilliant chef. But ever since Florilège moved to its new home in Azabudai, it seems he’s raised his game even further. The two-Michelin-starred restaurant temporarily closed its doors in Jingumae last summer, before opening at its new location in the much-hyped Azabudai Hills complex in November 2023. Trading its U-shaped dining counter for a more intimate 16-seater communal table, Florilège has evolved to further reflect Kawate’s commitment for culinary sustainability, with a particular focus on a vegetable-centric menu.
While Florilège's prix-fixe courses (lunch ¥10,000, dinner ¥20,000) still feature proteins like fish, beef and dairy, there's a significant emphasis on plant-based produce. Kawate is tuned into a growing culinary trend celebrating dishes unique to specific locations. He noticed that while premium Japanese products like top-grade maguro and wagyu have become globally accessible at a price, sourcing a bounty of fresh, seasonal Japanese vegetables is unique and harder to replicate outside Japan.
The grilled eggplant ravioli – one of the standout dishes of this season – is a perfect example of Kawate’s philosophy in action. It's a dish that champions a familiar vegetable, by using the skin of grilled eggplant for the outer ravioli layer and its flesh for the filling, flavoured with kelp for just the right amount of umami.
At his 'table d'hôte' style communal table, Kawate aims to cultivate meaningful conversations between diners and staff. These discussions are intended to challenge traditional views of fine dining while enhancing guests' understanding of the ingredients in each dish. In a fine dining landscape that’s still dominated by meat and fish-based dishes, we can’t wait to see what Kawate and his team of trailblazers have in store for the future.