Esaki

Size isn’t everything. This Kagurazaka oden restaurant may seat just 16 customers (eight at the counter and eight on raised tatami), but its menu is far deeper, including fine quality sashimi and excellent ajitsumire fish balls made with sashimi-grade aji (jack mackerel), ginger and spring onions. Of course, the oden is the star, including large chunks of stewed buri (yellowtail), fat hamaguri clams and soft-boiled eggs that are done to perfection. The oden moriawase (oden assortment) is a dependable choice for first-timers, but connoisseurs will prefer to make their own selections to avoid missing out on any favourite items. Just remember: when the weather turns chilly, you’ll need to make reservations – or you’ll be left out in the cold.